I’m involved with installing a floor – 300 sq. feet – in a lighthouse and have a finishing question. The wood is Vertical grain Fir, T & G decking. I’ve been told to seal all surfaces with shellac before instalation, partially to keep the surface clean, partially to slow down moisture absorption since there is NO heat/cooling (or electric) in this lighthouse. No electric means no large drum sanders to clean up the surface. So… should I use the shellac straight from the can (4 Lb cut) or thin it down to 2 lb cut? This problem arises because the ‘powers that be’ have still not decided on the final finish… regular poly or water-based poly or ‘something else’. And… the final finish may not be applied until next spring, depending on the weather / volunteer crew availability. Suggestions??? Thanks SawdustSteve
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Replies
How will you be applying the shellac? Roller, Brush or spray? I assume the pieces will be prefinished before install. I typically don't use a cut more than 2lb when i am using shellac under a topcoat. Make sure you get dewaxed shellac or else there will be adhesion problems with the poly top coat.
Aaron
If you are planning to use an oil based polyurethane varnish or ANY waterborne poly, you MUST use a dewaxed shellac. Poly and waterborne will not adhere well to a shellac that contains its natural wax. With the exception of one product, Zinsser sheallac is not dewaxed. Their only dewaxed shellac is called SealCoat. Go here to see: http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=72
Unless the container says "SealCoat" don't use it.
SealCoat is a 2# cut and can be brushed right out of the can.
Let me suggest that an oil based poly finish is more durable than a waterborne particularly if there is any chance of moisture. I would take a waterborne right out of consideration.Howie.........
Edited 8/22/2006 5:03 pm ET by HowardAcheson
Why shellac in particular, and also particularly since it will have to specifically be the dewaxed if you use poly.
Why not just a coat of non-poly varnish? No problem afterwards with future adherence--at least I think so. Or tell the "powers that be" to make up their minds about the final finsh and put a coat of that on now.
I have successfully used shellac on floors, and have had quite a bit of correspondence with Zinsser about it. The previous posters are quite right -- you must use dewaxed shellac as the base if you are going to use poly over it. The Zinsser SealCoat product that someone mentioned works very well out of the can, and dries for recoating in 45 minutes to an hour. You can put ANY topcoat over it.
I had trouble finding SealCoat in local Dallas-area stores, but got pretty fast delivery from Rockler.
Joe
You are correct of course--which I think I also said. If you use dewaxed shellac (which may come at a bit of a premium price also) you can use anything over it. It's just that you do have to be sure to do that, in order to be able to put anything you want over it.Gretchen
Hi Joe,
I recently needed a couple of gallons of seal coat for a job I did. HD was happy to special order it for me. I would imagine Lowe's would do the same.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Good point. You know, for some reason I did not think to ask them. However, the Rockler shipment was pretty fast.
J
Speaking of Zinser Seal Coat dewaxed shellac...Where do ya'll find it? I'm in the greater DC area and have yet to find it anywhere... Funny though, we have a place in upstate NY and I walk into the local hardware store and they have the stuff...Can't find it in a giant metro area, but there it is in tiny 'ol Pulaski, NY...
Specialty coatings suppliers that cater to the cabinet finishing trades have it in most cases. Also woodworking stores... Rockler, Woodcraft etc. Professional paint stores should also have it. I bought a batch of flakes of dewaxed garnet shellac from Woodcraft here but they were a closeout deal so they may not have them again. Usually in giant metro areas the cabinet shops are in smaller cities an hour or two of driving away from the high rent district... probably in DC's case even a bit farther out. There you will find suppliers who sell pallets of the stuff. The cab shops seem to cluster though you might find one most anywhere. There are at least ten in Saint Clair MO which is about an hour drive west of Saint Louis. It's a small town... probably 7 or 8 per cent of the people in the city work in the cabinet industry. Look up M L Campbell dealers online and that might give you a clue where to search. Or try Zinser dealers or cabinetmaker suppliers.
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