I just completed this table using a shop built jig from an old FWW. The jig is adjustable, you can use different thickness woods, and space the tails any way you want. The jig takes about 1 1/2 b.f. of stock to build and is unique to the project, so you have to build one for any different width boards, but hey, I don’t mind, its better to me than a $500 purchase. Let me know if anyone wants this article and I will try to post it to an adobe file.
Replies
Sorry! forgot to reduce the size! let me try this again. (I'm slightly better in the shop than on the computer)
Matt- I'd be interested in seeing the article- Thanks- Dave
The article is from June of 1994, # 106, apparently posting the article might get me arrested or shot, so y'all are on your own.
Is this the one you used?
Joe
Not to be too anal about it, but wouldn't ANY FWW article be copyrighted material with restrictions on what is, essentially, reprinting the article? You might want to check with SYSOP before you post your Adobe article.
Regards,
Ron
Matt, what volume # of FWW - I have them back to #55 in 1985
The inlay is ebony. I don't think you can coax any adjustability out of it, however it literally takes about a board foot of material, and it could be made from any wood, as long as it is of the same thickness, so the extra $5 per project isn't a big deal to me, but I don't do them that often.
coax any adjustability out of it...
I know I'm no help but someplace I saw a Box Jig that used just a 10-32 screw that moved the jig.... 1 turn of the screw = 1/32 inch of movement.. Wish I gould remember things but I'm old!
That is the Lynn's jig:
http://www.leestyron.com/lynnjig.php
Alan
Nice Dovetails..
BUT... I liked the inlays BETTER! How did you do those?
The inlay is easy, start with a tri-square, mine was set at 2" in from the edge. Draw a line all the way around and extend past by about an inch at the corners like the picture hopefully shows. Then, take your square again, now set at 1", and fill in the corners. It helped me to set the sqaure in 1/8" and draw out the groove all the way. The inlay groove itself was made with a router with a guide fence and careful routing. Follw up with an 1/8" chisel at the corners. Easy!
Once you fill in the corners, it looks like this.
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