Replies

1. 
   fussy | Feb 17, 2007 08:32am | #1

   Southwick1,

   Depending on the grade of the plywood, you'd be safe in most instances.  Don't use cdx or osb, or flake board.  If it's good stuff, I'd use it except for the drill press stand.  There, I'd use double thickness 3/4" mdf for the top.  Those suckers get heavy.  Depending on how you design the cabinets, sidewalls and backs should be ok in 1/2"  Use 2x6 cleats on the bottom to support casters. 

   Steve

   There are two secrets to keeping one's wife happy.

   1.  Let her think she's having her own way.

   2.  Let her have her own way. President  Lyndon Baines Johnson

2. 
   Cincinnati | Feb 17, 2007 04:42pm | #2

   DS

   It's difficult to answer your question.

   One of the most important things in designing / material selection is understanding your strength requirements. I tend to overdesign in this case You never know how you might want to use that cabinet in the future. Will it fail if in 4 years someone needs something overhead and tries to stand on top of the cabinet, or if someone tried to climb the shelves to reach something?

   Good grade 1/2" is strong in the direction of the sheet (Standing a section on edge and trying to crush it) but week perpendicular to the sheet. I would not use it in a flat horizontal position for things like shelves or tops, unless the span is short. However, f you stiffen it with proper bracing it could be stronger than 3/4" ply.

   For these applications, if you have enough of it, I would build a torsion box for the top, put bracing under it to add strength in the direction that I need, or as a last resort, laminate two sheet together.

1. 
   southwick1 | Feb 17, 2007 07:01pm | #4

   Thanks for the input.  I would only use it in the veritcal plane as the tops of these cabinets will be solid wood.  I wondered about making a panel and frame construction using the 1/2 inch ply as the panel.  After constructing the panels I could join them together to make the carcase to accept the base with rollers and the wood top.

   Do you think this would work, and would it be strong enough?

   thanks

   ds

1. 
   Cincinnati | Feb 17, 2007 07:28pm | #5

   dsSounds like it to me. Make strong joints in the case to keep it from "parallelagramming" (Now I'm designing my own verbs too!) under load. With Regards,Greg

1. 
   jeanlou | Feb 19, 2007 12:32am | #6

   Cincinnati and southwick1

   Making the cabinets from 1/2 inch veneer core ply, with a center gable and a 1/2 inch (even a 1/4 inch back) that is inserted between rabbets and screwed into the gables will never skew, and will support anything you will ever put on it.  JL

3. 
   Cheatah | Feb 17, 2007 06:55pm | #3

   Southwick---

   Yes... 1/2" ply will be fine. Many, many many commerical kitchen cabs are made with 1/2" ply or worse (1/2" PB) and have been in service for literally decades. Feel good about using 1/2" ply for shop cabinets.   I have used 1/2" ply numerous times for shop projects and casework for my own projects. It works great and costs less.

   So many times we over engineer our projects. It's one thing to be proud and want to use the very best materials we can buy. But all too often, we over engineer and use materials that are over kill.

   Thank you,

   Cheatah

4. 
   ThreePuttJoe | Feb 19, 2007 05:53am | #7

   I have made several rolling shop cabinets from 2 x 4's and 1/2" plywood. They are overbuilt and stronger than anything I could possibly need them for. I used several of those Simpson or Stimson Strong Tie Corner braces where various 2 x 4's come together. The 1/2" ply is just a "skin" that closes the cabinet and keeps the thing from racking, and the tops are 3/4" ply or double, depending on the use. Solid wood corner pieces finish and protect the corners. With those red casters from Woodcraft, these things are rock solid. I haven't gotten around to painting them yet, but when I do, they'll look great, and buying the casters on sale, total price is about $60 each.

1. 
   Wanda200 | Mar 03, 2007 12:25am | #8

   Hi,

   I am wondering if I am better off building workshop cupboards out of 3/4" ply. I was planning on using 1/2" ply for the back. Just regular 1/2 fir plywood purchased at the Home Depot not baltic birch. I'm trying to keep the costs down.

   I realize many people like to use melamine coated particle board when buidling cabinets for tools and cupboards. But I have never used that material before.

   Would 3/4" Knotty pine be strong enough? Not like the cupboards will be holding anything heavy. I am mostly using them to store light items such as hand tools, sand paper, screws ect. Here are the dimensions... 20"(tops/bottoms) wide by 24"in length. (sides)  with maybe a small drawer and 2 shelves.  Is 1X8 wide enough? My jointer doesn't joint anything wider than 8" and I don't want to be ripping and gluing up boards. So I figured 8" (actually 7 1/4 ) would be wide enough for the sides. If not maybe I'll have to go with Plywood rather than knotty pine.

   If I decide to use plywood what's the best way to fasten it? with screws and glue? Or are screws sufficient to hold the pieces together.

   I would like to rabbit the side pieces to except the top and bottom rather than just butt joint the pieces together.  Usually dadoes are cut 1/3 the width of the material.. 1/4" for 3/4 " thick board.  Would it make that much difference if I cut the dado a wee bit wider? Better to just fasten the back on with nails or would it be better to cut a rabbit on the side pieces.

   any suggestions would be appreciated.

   I want these cupbaords to look good. Even though they're just workshop cupboards. The doors for these cupboards will be  hinged frame and panel. I was planning on painting them.

   Wanda