Hey Fellas, Just put down 3/4 t&g plywood down for my shop floor(1500 sq ft). My question is; what should I put down on the plywood for durability, non skid, cleanability, and etc. a good paint, maybe epoxy paint? Linolium tiles?, Laminate floor? Any ideas would really help me make this decision.
Thanks, Lou
Replies
Tongue and groove southern yellow pine flooring.
Lou,
I used Armstrong linoleum tiles from Lowes on my plywood floor. Worked out great. I have a slight problem with the very edge of some tiles coming up. Stepping on them a few times seems to get them to stay down. I bought some extra tiles so if I ever have a serious problem I can replace some tiles. They are comfortable to walk on and dropping a chisel or other tool causes no problem for the tool or the tile.
Good luck, George
You don't stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard
1500 sq/ft/ Can I smack you? I'd kill for 1500 square feet of shop.........:)
Oh...and my vote is for orange shag carpet.
Good luck
Justjealous Bob
Why not just leave it as is?
Over the years the sawdust, shavings, etc and foot traffic will develop a patina that will age with use. No problems with slipping and zero maintenance. I purchased 3/4 plywood, one side good - no voids as my woodshop floor. As long as you don't have any issues with water, it will likely outlast you.
Years from now when you get old like me, you'll see a spot on the floor and it will bring back memories of a past success!
Clean up is a breeze, just open the doors, grab the leaf blower and bast everything out. Hell, I've even opened the doors and windows on a windy day and let her rip!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Oh...and my vote is for orange shag carpet.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Now THAT was funny!
OK, how about installation of some blacklights to enhance the carpet!?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Real funny, Mr Kiddervilleacres, And your 61. Ha Ha!!!
Edited 3/20/2007 6:15 am ET by loucarabasi
Seriously Lou,
You might want to check out the NOFMA site. They offer all manner of installation options/guidelines. When I worked for a commercial flooring compay we often directed folks to the site. Many flooring suppliers required installation per their specs.
http://www.nofma.org/
Much FREE info. there!
Hope this helps,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Excellent idea! And fuzzy dice, the look would not be right unless there were a pair of fuzzy dice hanging above the table saw. Oh, and one of those carpet wall murals -- you know the kind -- the background is blue/black with the image of a tiger or leopard on it. Lou's shop is complete! We can rest now, our job is finished.
Please don't suggest disco strobe lights! Actually I rerad somewhere that a turner used one when turning. Seems like it was used to freeze frame the piece in the lathe.
I wonder if Lou will wear his Frankenstein boots, bell bottom rees tie died t-shirt and a fro cut!?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Ok funnyman, I can get some bambo flooring very cheep. can I use that on the floor? I am in a 1-2 man shop and this is my business.
Thanks, Lou
Hi lou,
Bamboo is used by several commercial brands although it is on the soft side. That being the case I would think it might be a good candidate, especially for dropped tools.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 3/22/2007 7:21 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Let's not forget Elvis on black velvet....
How about "curb feelers" on the table saw and chrome spinners on the mobile bases?
Jeff
The 1500 sf really did get to stoneaxe!!!
I'd kill for orange shag in my 816 sg shop:<)
Hey Lou,
When I built my shop 10 years ago I just went the simple route and poured concrete. While concretes pretty much indestructible it's reeeeeeeeally hard on the legs and back so if I ever get the chance to build another shop it's going to have a wood floor. More than likely it will have a double layer subbase of "3/4 plywood only in between the plywood subbases I'll put a rolled foam base so there's some give for old bones. Once the bases are down depending on $$$$ I'd either put down T&G flooring or with the strength of the paintable urethanes I'd go with the urethanes first because if it didn't hold up very well I could always put down the T&G later. I think before I painted or laid down any flooring over the subbase I'd use a urethane based filler on the subfloor to fill any voids.
I hope this might be of some help,
Sincerely
Jim at Clark Customs
Lou,
Can you describe how you installed the plywood? This will have an influence as to the choices you have for flooring. In the past this is how we used to prep a slab for solid wood flooring. The insulation was optional as it most likely wouldn't be required in southern states. Also, this spec. requires that the floor be above finish grade.
On a concrete slab, lay down 6 mil poly film, overlapping 6" with each sheet. Lay sleepers 16" on center (can be nailed with special gun if desired). Place two layers of 3/4" solid foam insulation between, gives 1 1/2" to match height of sleepers.
If you run everything 16" on center, it shouldn't matter which way you run the sleepers vs the plywood. Also, make sure that you stagger the seams of the sheets.
Solid Wood Flooring: Before installing the finish floor, we laid 15 lb. felt to smooth out any minor differences between the sheets of plywood. Also, there are usually stripes on 16" centers that makes nailing solid wood flooring easier, assuming the stripes line up with the sleepers.
Hopefully there won't be any issues with respect to transitions between your woodshop floor and any adjacent rooms which will need to be dealt with.
We even had a requirement to install the sleepers diagonally to the plywood subfloor! Yea, you guessed, government building!
Regards,
On ciom
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
lou,
Plywood is fine, if you want to add something, go to a sawmill and buy white oak mill run. Mill run means just as it comes off the log. Let it dry, kiln dry is fine but a bit expensive. air dried will take about a year. plane one side reasonably smooth and run it over your jointer to make sure the edges are smooth and square..
No need to tongue and groove (unless you really want to give your shaper a work out) you can face nail it in place. or screw it if you're determined to waste time..
The advantage White oak will have over plywood is it won't wear the way plywood will. White oak sells for 80 cents a bd.ft. so for under $1500 you'll have a white oak floor..
That or wait untill some pallet mill doesn't pick up their order Then you can cover the floor for about $200.
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