Replies

1. 
   Westchester | Dec 20, 2009 06:10pm | #1

   candles probably aren't
   candles probably aren't strong enough -

   try a combo of flourescent + incandescent

   SA

2. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 20, 2009 07:47pm | #2

   Even though you're going for
   Even though you're going for an old-fashioned look, I'd still go with hanging fluorescent fixtures, placed so they are over the work areas, not behind where you will be standing. You can always make light-weight enclosures/frames that will hide the fixtures. Add a few antique-looking hanging lights for accents, and you're all set.

   On the practical side, I'd suggest dividing the lights into separately-switched work zones, so you don't have to burn all of the lights all the time.

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Dec 24, 2009 10:22pm | #3

   Ralph Barker,

   I am interested why you specify hanging. I tried hanging the florescent lights and they just seemed to be in the way. I thought they might be too hot but after feeling them, they seemed only warm. I fastened them fast to the ceiling. I have ten foot ceilings and use T5 fluorescents.

   I have eight four tube fixtures in about 1000 square feet.

1. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 25, 2009 11:29am | #6

   My suggestion of hanging lights was partly motivated by the OP's desire for an "old-fashioned" appearance. But, there's also the factor of how much light actually falls on the work surfaces. Light "falls off" based on the law of inverse squares (double the distance, get 1/4th the light), excluding the effect of reflectors and such. So, closer is better, light-wise. But, as you point out, there's the convenience factor to consider, as well. Hanging lights tend to get in the way of moving long stock around.

   Lighting engineers and interior decorators use formulae to figure this stuff out. The rest of us keep adding lights until we have enough, then add a few more when we get older. ;-)

3. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 25, 2009 12:59am | #4

   Not inexpensive but low voltage.. What I call.. voltage track (wires) hung 'spots' are great. You can position them anywhere along the two voltage feed wires. Not for main lighting but the lamps can be placed in critical areas.

1. 
   HoustonsProblem | Dec 25, 2009 10:54am | #5

   Windows are your best bet for a traditional look. The shop must be properly aligned to the sun and the windows must be placed to admit light properly.

   For days when natural lighting is not good, fluorescent T8 strip lights are best.

   If you must hate T8 strip lighting, compact fluorescent bulbs are available and can be put in fixtures that look nice.

   Banker's lamps are one of the better traditional looking lamps. They put light on a desk or work bench without putting it in your eyes.

   Tube fluorescents were invented in the 1930's. It may be possible to build something to disguise them.

4. 
   dloc | Dec 25, 2009 08:56pm | #7

   CFL's come in a wide variety
   CFL’s come in a wide variety of sizes – up to the equivalent of 300 watts anyway and can be retrofitted to most traditional lamps with a little ingenuity. And you can now buy dimmable CFL’s if you want mood. Remember that tubes and CFL’s are rated for both light output and color balance. There is a world of difference between 3500K and 5000K, and in a workshop 5000K bulbs make a lot of sense.

5. 
   JohnWW | Dec 26, 2009 09:19am | #8

   Go to a farm supply catalog such as theses guys:

   http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft1_lighting_fixtures_bulbs-ft1_lighting_fixtures;pg108686.html

6. 
   Emancipate7+ | Jan 01, 2010 08:33pm | #9

   Lots of good comments.
   I use
   Lots of good comments.

   I use a combination of seasonally positioned windows, cfls and 4'zoned florescent fixtures with different "colors" of tubes. (This also helps if you have seasonal depression or a plant in the shop for oxygen quality especially around finishing products.) You have to watch the color or the light produced because it can vary from ultra white to blue or even a bit orange.

   I have spot incandescent bulbs where work is close, i. e. drill press and band saw. Dimmable cfls are not cost effective since dimming wears them out much faster. The newer cfl reflector spot and floods are good when they have warmed up and stay on. They can be positioned in incandescent fixtures. Low voltage lights that are constantly on are cost effective but take a lot of bulbs for general lighting and the bulbs are expensive over the life of the system. They are good for close work or decorative patterns.

   I keep one switch for a minimum number of incandescent lights used for that late night quick trip because florescents are cost effective when turned on and left on, not for the quick trip. Florescent lights can be ceiling mounted so long as they are 12" from a wall or other obstruction. Their heat is not a problem except in closet type environments. (I am a retired master electrician.)

   As an aside, in the winter I cover my northern exposure windows with interior shutters made of aluminized bubble wrap and heavy felt to increase the R-value.

7. 
   jack | Jan 06, 2010 04:07am | #10

   There may be a way to accomplish your objectives but I'll need a lot more info to determine if it's feasible, and it's a lot too complex to try by swapping messages on the forum. PM me if you want to pursue it and we can arrange a way to chat.

8. 
   richjsn | Jan 25, 2010 09:53pm | #11

   I like the T5 idea. Where did you buy the fixtures? I also am converting a two car garage 18 x 19. So far the insulation is done and I am in the process of drywall. Next will be lights. I have installed two seperate circuits in the ceiling for the lights. The height is 8 foot. Right now im looking at ceiling mount two bulb T8 I cant find anyone with T5 fixtures. Any ideas?

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Jan 26, 2010 11:18pm | #14

   Mr. richjsn,
   I don't think
   Mr. richjsn,

   I don't think you will find the T5 fixtures in the Lowe's, Home Depot stores yet though I think I found the bulbs at Lowes. You would need to go to an industrial electrical shop. Ann electrician installed mine as I had never heard of them before. They give a lot of light - possibly more that you would want in a small room with a low ceiling. I just now noticed your reply as posts are so hard to follow without the notification. I don't remember if I mentioned that I had about 30 square feet per 4 ft. T5 tube. As one gets older, one needs more lighting so at age 77 I enjoy that much. One doesn't really much need any task lighting. The whole room is light without shadows. I'd be glad to give any more help if you need it.

9. 
   stpatrick | Jan 25, 2010 11:55pm | #12

   I think you want T8's in a
   I think you want T8's in a shop. T-5's are 5/8ths in diameter so would be good under cabinets, etc. T-8's are 8/8ths in diameter, so much better for ceiling mounting. The older ones were T-12's, ie 12/8ths or one and one-half inch.

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Jan 26, 2010 11:00pm | #13

   Mr. stpatrick,

   I am stumped why you would relate the diameter of different fluorescent bulbs to its usefullness in different parts of a room. I think the T5 would be a poor choice for under cabinet mounting. At 52 watts and more efficiency than the 30 watt T8, it probably produces twice the light of the T8. T5s, in my opinion, produce way more light than one would normally need for under cabinet usage. I've been up close to the T5 and they just blind you. I have T8s in my house and they give a very nice amount of light for a smaller room but the T5 is good for larger rooms with higher ceilings. As far as efficiency is concerned the T12 is out - not as much light and more power to light them than the T8.

1. 
   stpatrick | Jan 26, 2010 11:32pm | #15

   Tink, my understanding may be erroneous, so i will defer to your experience

10. 
    deerfielder | Feb 04, 2010 09:36pm | #16

    I recently outfitted my shop with these.

    http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(zywotaqppthzgtvippnwpcnr)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=31284

    Very inexpensive and have a nice vintage look.

11. 
    JulianBE | Feb 04, 2010 10:39pm | #17

    Adam Cherubini wrote a very interesting and helpful piece about this in his blog. It was some time ago and I found it by searching the PW website. It helped me light my bench - sometimes less is more, and he doesn't get tied up in discussions about tube types and so on.

    Well, I can't find the article, but I remember he used no overhead tubes, only a few bulbs in reflectors at the ends of his bench, adjusted as needed. It's true, sometimes a wash makes it hard to see some details and lines. I now use a tube overhead with bulbs at either end, and I can choose which to use. When you turn off the big light it seems very dark, but soon your eyes adjust and the directional lights can be very revealing.

12. 
    Scag_man | Feb 05, 2010 12:21pm | #18

    Regardless of the lighting you choose, you'll get much better shop lighting if your shop surfaces (floors, walls, ceilings, cabinets, etc.) are white. You can put lots of light in concrete dungeon and it will still look like a dungeon. Whites reflect light and darks absorb it. The difference is amazing.