I want to slice up some maple and birds-eye maple into veneer strips about 5″ wide, thickness sand to 3/16″, joint then glue into panels, re-sand to 1/8″, and glue to 5/8 MDF that has been pre-edged with similar veneer. All pieces will be simple flat panels for cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Both sides will be veneered.
First question: How thick can such veneer go without causing expansion and contraction problems? In other words, I want the glue to overcome the woods strength to move as is done in plywood.
Second question: What glue is best. Both edge jointing the veneer and laminating to the MDF.
Third question: Do I need a vacuum press? Or, can I just make backer panels with a lot of cauls and clamps?
Replies
The process you describe is fine. I use 1/8" veneer glued to substrate all the time without issue. Your solid banding can sometimes swell and cause the edges of the veneer to lift a bit. I counter this with a decorative inlay at the edge, when the design allows for it.
As far as the glue up goes, they were making these types of panels eons ago well before the invention of the vacuum pump. Alot of clamps and cauls with do fine, as long as you use consistant even pressure.
There are many glues for this process as well. I like plastic resin glue for it's long open time. Many others use hide glue, and many more still use good ole fashioned pva (yellow) glue. It's all about how fast you're working, and how fast you want the glue to set.
As you stated, it's critical to veneer both sides of the substrate with the same thickness of veneer for stability.
Happy holidays,
Jeff
I built a veneer press with some curved cauls that works fine. Building one is worth the effort if you are gluing up more that a few panels, I did it for a large built-in. I have used yellow glue with no problems, the open time is short so planning is required, but it is out of the clamps in about an hour. One way to save a step is to surface only one side of the veneers, glue them to the substrate then thickness sand the whole panel.
Actually, joint (surface plane) the stock from which the veneer will be cut, then bandsaw off a veneer slice. The planed surface gets glued to the substrate. A planed surface is far better than a sanded surface for gluing.
Then surface plane the stock again, slice off veneer, etc.
Finsh off the rough saw marks (planing and sanding) after all the veneer is adhered onto the substrate.
Rich
I never make my shop sawn veneers thicker than 1-1.2 milimeters thick. But I am not sure what that converts to in Imperial. All I know is that if I get any thicker I started having problems.
As for glue I use Urea Formeldahyde, which is what you call Plastic Resin Glue.
I also use only vacum presses and they work so well. So I have to recommend them.
Good luck
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ES :
Where you live might make a difference as to how thick you should make your veneer. If the humidity in your shop is higher than in your house (or wherever the panels will eventually reside), you probably should make it as thin as possible. I did a project with veneer I cut to approx. .010. After a year in the house, the edge joints are opening slightly. Store-bought veneer laid at the same time is not doing that. Both are glued to MDF. I live where humidity is high in my shop which has no air conditioning and little heat (except in the summer).
Cadiddlehopper
Just want to express my thanks to all of you folks who wrote back giving me advice. Every one of the comments was thought provoking and helpful. This Knots forum continues to be about the best tool in my shop.Joe (Elegant Solution)
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