Replies

1. 
   petersenpete | Nov 13, 2002 09:26pm | #1

   I put 1/2" drywall on the ceiling and 1/2' plywood on the walls so I can nail or screw into it anywhere I want.  Of course you have to find studs for anything heavy. 

   Truthfully, I went with plywood and attached with screws so that I have access if I need to modify or add wiring in the future.

   "He who is not busy being born, is busy dying."  Bob Dylan
2. 
   PaulReuter | Nov 14, 2002 02:33am | #2

   20x30?  Cathedral ceiling?   Wow!!!!!!!!

   Drywall on the walls of my 12.5 x 26.5.  All taped & painted white.  You soon learn to be careful when swinging lumber in confined spaces.  Ceiling is fireguard acoustic panels sitting on the flanges of metal stud strapping screwed to the ceiling joists of my basement shop, trying to scrape every inch out of the 7'2" height I have available.  Drywall would have worked there too, but I wanted access to dust collector pipes etc. in the joist spaces.

   You should see the old 'heavy iron' I have in there though.

   Cheers

   Paul

3. 
   riverr1 | Nov 14, 2002 02:47am | #3

   There's only one good or useful wall or ceiling material--Plaster.

   Don

1. 
   bhackford | Nov 14, 2002 05:49am | #4

   I was thinking of T1-11, but it is expensive for my wallet 3/8 is $13 per sheet.  Locally, I can get rough sawn lumber, 1in hemlock, for $0.60 a square foot but hauling it up to the ceiling which 17' high is not fun.  Aren't there flame retardant cloths used in farm buildings that are cheap and clean?  I thought it was called it was called "scat"?  Thanks for all your comments

1. 
   theRev | Nov 15, 2002 02:15am | #5

   If you want cheap, you can always staple cardboard to your ceiling. <g>.

   Seriously, consider a painted surface rather than wood. Wood may look nicer, but if you are serious about it being a workroom, youll need to be able to see what you are doing, and white walls and ceiling really help with your lighting.

   Scott

2. 
   riverr1 | Nov 15, 2002 07:02am | #8

   Not sure about scat, but it is common practice in some areas of the tropics to stretch canvass as a lath and plaster it. I don't think you'll find canvass of that size very economical though. We use to use it to resurface damaged plaster walls, but that was back when sailmakers still used canvass. Now it's all nylon, gortex and kevlar. Canvass of that size is still available from theatre supply companys, but like I said, $$$$.

   Don

4. 
   mike4244 | Nov 15, 2002 03:11am | #6

   1/2" sheetrock on the ceiling, OSB on the walls. The ceiling is painted white, the walls are unpainted, but I have lots of windows for natural light.I imagine you could paint OSB but I wouldn't expect it to look as good as a smooth drywall finish.

1. 
   hmthomas | Nov 15, 2002 06:26am | #7

   I have 1/2 sheetrock on walls & ceiling (24 x 36, 10' wall, vaulted ceiling). Painted white, it really helps with the lighting. If you do go with the osb its tough to paint. I did the storeroom in osb and learned the hardway. It sucked up so much paint I'm embarrassed to tell. I ended up going over the whole room with Kilz (Oil Base) then was finally able to get a coat of paint on it. Bottom line, if you think you may want to paint it then don't use the osb. It doesn't look that great and its labor intensive.

   I'm building a shop for a neighbor right now and we're putting 1/4 ply on the bottom 4 feet and 1/4 pegboard on the top 4 feet. All painted off white. It seems to be working out ok pretty good.

1. 
   BG | Nov 15, 2002 02:48pm | #10

   I'm about to cover up one wall of insulation in the basement with 1/4" ply...a little concerned that it's thick enough to stay nice and flat on the wall.  Also thinking about some paneling that woud have a finish to keep down  dust klinging to rough surface.  Any thoughts or experience to share?

1. 
   hmthomas | Nov 15, 2002 03:29pm | #11

   I think you'll be ok with the 1/4 ply. We attached it to all studs. Mostly nailed but we did screw in a few sheets that he thought he might want to get behind later for electrical modifications. I had to cut some trim wood for the seams between ply and 1/4 pegboard. It dressed it up a bit too. No problem with flatness on either.  We haven't finished it yet but from my experience with the osb board I think we'll probably get a good primer or just go straight to the oil base Kilz.

   Sorry, no experience with the paneling but it seems like it would be a good option. I'ld still look for a light color to reflect light and brighten it up.

   Good luck, Hugh

1. 
   BG | Nov 15, 2002 06:48pm | #12

   thanks for the comments and observations.  Yes, definitely a light color panel if i go that way.  I only need three sheets...so i can be extravagant...

2. 
   AhneedHelp | Nov 16, 2002 05:26pm | #13

   I have a 1-car garage awaiting transformation into a....shop.

   It presently has what appears to be 3/8" OSB and friend commented it being a fire hazard.

   Can someone elaborate on this ?

   He said the stuff would flame up in no time if subjected to ignition source.

   His suggestion was to sheetrock over them or remove them and then sheetrock.

   I would like to ask the same about plywood, which I would like to use in some sections of the wall.

   Thanks !

   Alan

3. 
   SCFrankland | Nov 16, 2002 09:45pm | #14

   I don't think you will have any problems with the OSB.  I have used it on the floor and walls of shops I have had in the past.  Yes it is a wood product and yes wood products will burn when flame is exposed to them but in your case I wouldn't worry to much.  Sheetrock over the top is also not a bad choice.  Once installed it can be plastered and painted white to give you a better work area do to lighting conditions and the fact you can fasten items to the wall anywhere do to the OSB backing.  But if money or time do not permit than don't worry to much about it.Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

4. 
   AhneedHelp | Nov 16, 2002 10:18pm | #15

   Thanks, Scott -

   I need to make sure what type of sheeting the garage has.

   I am assuming OSB - some sort of compressed chip board, maybe 1/4 - 3/8" thick.

   Alan

5. 
   Sancho | Nov 17, 2002 12:47am | #16

   Scott..

   Dude

    I have a complaint with you...You stop by to Infrequently. I want you to stop by more. Hows the baby? Getting big I bet and hows the new job coming. 

   At Darkworks cut to size made to burn......Putty isnt a option

6. 
   SCFrankland | Nov 17, 2002 01:37am | #17

   Well the little guy is turning into a big guy and the job has me moving several thousand kilometers west to the province next door.  I have another 7 weeks to go before I am finished training but the hard stuff is behind me now.  I have to say though it will be nice to get back to a place where trees grow instead of wheat.  But mostly I cannot wait till the saw dust starts to fly once more.Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

7. 
   Sancho | Nov 17, 2002 09:05am | #18

   cool it will be great to have you back here as a regular again

   At Darkworks cut to size made to burn......Putty isnt a option

5. 
   elbert | Nov 15, 2002 08:07am | #9

   I did my 24x28 foot shop w/ 9' ceiling in 1/2 sheetrock, painted white.  I wanted as bright an area as possible here in the cloudy/rainy northwest.  Sheetrock is cheap, but the taping work is somewhat of an art.  But after all it is a shop, so I ignor the minor flaws. 

   As for mounting stuff to the walls, not a problem.  I either hit the stud, or span between studs with a piece of either plywood or 1" stock and mount pegs and hooks to that.

   One respondant commented on using plywood or osb so they could get to the wiring.  I did all the wiring on the surface in EMT to enable changes as needed.  Doesn't have the "finished" look of concealed wiring, but have already made a couple of changes in the two years since I did the initial work so it was the right choice for me.

6. 
   ChiefsFa2 | Nov 17, 2002 03:20pm | #19

   I did my new shop with the bottom 4 feet in 1/2 plywood and the top 8 feet in drywall. The cieling is white barn tin, extra heavy that is screwed to the bottoms of the trusses.

   Wine is God's way of capturing the sun.
1. 
   bhackford | Nov 18, 2002 06:28am | #20

   What is the square foot cost for the tin?  Who was your supplier?

1. 
   ChiefsFa2 | Nov 24, 2002 06:23pm | #21

   I bought mine in KC..actually Grain Valley MO...many towns have a shop that custom cuts and rolls tin. As far as cost per ft l dont recall exactly but it was about a grand for enough to do 36 by 48 and was cut custom to fit my trusses. Muchcheaper than plywood or drywall. It needs no framing...mine is screwed to the bottoms of the trusses on 7 1/2 foot centers. If you drywall it you have to do all the framing plus install the heavy buggers, then tape and paint...way to many bucksWine is God's way of capturing the sun.