Replies

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Feb 03, 2001 11:58pm | #1

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   Having had my share (more than my share) of finishing problems, I learned that the only way to achieve a high quality finish is to rub out the last coat, regardless of the application method. The rubbing out procedure is covered in detail in many books, so there is no need to go over it here. Once you become familiar with how long the finish has to dry, and how thick a finish is required, the results of a hand rubbed finish are certainly worth the time spent.

1. 
   david_sorg | Feb 04, 2001 01:38am | #2

   *I agree with Rob; the spraying will save you time by being able to apply more product in a shorter time, but the quality of the final look will be a result of rubbing and/or polishing.For less important surfaces, the spraying is much faster and better for even application of dye stains, things like seal coats, satin-in-the-can looks, etc.And, at the risk of inuring the rat of some, "professional" results will be easier to achieve if you use professional products, which pretty much translates into solvent-based shellacs, paints and varnishes, and lacquers. They flow better and polish soother.

1. 
   Don_Stephan | Feb 05, 2001 01:44am | #3

   *I started spraying a number of years ago to apply finish more evenly and quickly with a Wagner HVLP turbine sprayer (about $150). Constantly had to sand between coats because of rough surface. Finally purchased an ECO HVPL spray gun from http://www.homesteadfinishing.com and immediately obtained much better results. Still consider myself a spraying apprentice so results not guaranteed every time, but more often than not the coats dry practically glass smooth, saving tremendous amount of time and producing professional looking finish. Downside is cost - you get what you pay for.

1. 
   Craig_Caldwell | Feb 06, 2001 07:24pm | #4

   *You should probably expect to spend upwards of 100% of your initial spray equipment costs on "STUFF". Things like a good mask, filters, setting up a spray area, funnel filters, a selection of caps,needles and tips. Not to mention the time you'll have to invest. After having said that... It's worth it!

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Feb 07, 2001 04:09pm | #5

   *I build period furniture, and I will stick to brushing on finishes. The amount of time I spend applying finishes is insignificant to the time spent on the project. If I were making entertainment centers or kitchen cabinets on a regular basis, then spray equipment, would probably be a wise investment. These types of projects are much larger, and take very little time to make, so that the process of applying the finish represents a greater portion of the overall time.I do own spray equipment, but I only use it to apply dyes, because of the greater control I have with NGR dyes.

2. 
   Tim_Kulin | Feb 08, 2001 09:52pm | #6

   *I was in the same situation 8 or 10 years ago when I started spray finishing. I'm now able to consistently achieve perfect finishes almost without even thinking about it. For me, it came down to three things, the right equipment, the right materials and the right technique.There are lots of options and opinions regarding equipment, but I would say just don't buy the cheapest. I use an HVLP conversion gun and a standard compressor. That's just how it worked out for me. I know other systems can work as well or better.Using good materials has been the key for me to getting good results. I use Nitrocellulose Laquer and sanding sealer for everything except table tops that will see a lot of wear. I even use laquer paint when color is required. The advantages to me are drying time (1 hr to sand) and repairability. For a more durable finish, (say for kitchen cabinets)I sometimes use catalized laquer. I'd suggest finding a paint supplier that caters to professionals rather than a hardware store. I use Sherwin Williams.The procedure I use is simple and it always works. 1. Sand to whatever grit you like.2. Shoot two good coats of sanding sealer.3. Hand sand with 600 or 800 grit paper until the entire surface chalks up. If you haven't experienced sanding sealer, you are in for a treat. It sands as easily as balsa wood. This step usually takes no more than an hour for any reasonably sized project. Use a rubber sanding block to make sure you get a smooth surface. 4. Blow off the dust. No tack rag is required because the next coat will melt any dust left on the surface. 5. Spray 2 coats of the top coat (high gloss, semi-gloss, etc)6. I usually stop there. Because the surface was leveled at the sanding sealer step, the top coat is usually perfect at this point. I have rubbed out the finish a few times but found that I didn't like the very shiny appearance. If this happens, just shoot the whole thing again with a heavy coat of laquer thinner and you will be back to the as-sprayed look. Just my 2 cents.Tim

3. 
   Daniel_Foth | Feb 09, 2001 06:40am | #7

   *Thanks alot everyone for the info. I have been using a standard spray gun for a little while now with moderate results. It sounds like I really should invest in HVLP which I have been considering for a while. My problem has been exactly what Tim brought up. Finding an expert in finish supplies. Home Depot just doesn't cut it. I asked them a question about sanding sealer and he looked at me like I was a green bug. I'll try Sherman Williams tommorow. Thanks again everyone

4. 
   Tim_Kulin | Feb 09, 2001 08:48pm | #8

   *Dan,My Sherwin Williams dealer isn't the best technical rescource, but they have good products and good prices. Ask to set up a cash account and you may get even better prices.The best technical rescource in my town is an automotive paint supply house that also sells materials for wood.Back to Sherwin Williams, I like all their products except for satin laquer. The high gloss and semi-gloss are great, but the satin leaves a soft finish that is not very scratch resistant. I think it has too much flattening agent (maybe silica?) to form a really hard finish. Anyway, I mix it half and half with the semi-gloss and it's better.Good Luck.Tim

5. 
   baruch_vaks | Feb 10, 2001 07:18pm | #9

   *traditional golden pine furniturehow do i get a look of traditional golden pine furniture? is it oil,wax,or something else?thanksbvaks

6. 
   Don_Stephan | Feb 26, 2001 03:30am | #10

   *Visit Jeff Jewitt's forum at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com. I think you will find that the support and experience are excellent, and make mail order purchasing of finishing equipment and supplies very realistic if you can't find a very good local dealer.