Replies

1. 
   DougF | Aug 03, 2005 10:50pm | #1

   I've done it both ways and it really depends on the lumber.  Either way, it will pay to color and grain match your lumber, at least for the top, as closely as possible.  If I need filler, I use a very dark filler to highlight the grain.

2. 
   Crunk | Aug 03, 2005 11:50pm | #2

   I've always hated making a species something it was not.  Oak is open-grained.

    

   
   

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   Edited 8/3/2005 4:50 pm ET by BossCrunk

1. 
   MichaelPB | Aug 07, 2005 09:03am | #3

   and yet you make trees into something they are not...

    

1. 
   Crunk | Aug 07, 2005 02:49pm | #4

   If you need a closed-grain look then start with a closed-grain species.

3. 
   MichaelPB | Aug 07, 2005 06:34pm | #5

   Mark,

   Ignore those who still believe what their mother's told them about being the center of the universe.

   You have kids and want mission furniture with those beautiful rays of quarter saw oak, go for it.

   I would suggest looking at some real antique mission furniture and you will notice that the pores are often filled.  Combination of grime, wax, orange juice and god knows what of 80 some years of use.

   When filling, remember the effect it will have on the finish look, darker filler will tend to disapear with a darker finish but with a light finish, they will stand out.  So you want your filler a few shades darker than your finish.

   Good luck!

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 07, 2005 06:43pm | #6

   It depends what "look" you want. If you want a perfectly flat elegent, high gloss, glass-like finish, then filling is the way to go. If you want a natural more casual wood look and feel, then filling is not required.

   You don't need to fill to get durability. However, if you damp wipe a non-filled surface, sooner or later the pore depressions will become the repository for dirt and grime. This may necessitate a more agressive cleaning or it may require a refinishing. I have made a number of non-filled oak surfaces that had 3-4 full strength coats of varnish. This is enough film thickness that it almost eliminates the pore depressions and agressive clean will do minimal harm.Howie.........

   
   

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   Edited 8/7/2005 11:45 am ET by Howie

1. 
   DougF | Aug 08, 2005 04:18pm | #8

   From the research I've done on finishes of this period, many of the better builders of mission-style furniture, including Stickley, filled their QSWO.  Grain filling does not mean that the finish has be glass-like or high-gloss.  A black filler such as that made by Bartleys, does a wonderful job at both filling and adding dimension to the wood followed by an oil/varnish top coats. 

5. 
   forestgirl | Aug 07, 2005 07:34pm | #7

   OK, this discussion is revealing some strong opinions, wow.  How 'bout a compromise?  I'll beat the "wetsanding" drum again.  I've never tried it with QSWO, but can't think of any reason it wouldn't work, as it works well on red oak and on denser woods such as maple.  You would fill the pores to some extent, but not as thoroughly (and some would say, it seems, artificially) but with the wood itself, plus the oil you're using (Danish oil finish usually).

   See my post in this thread.  Above all, take some representative scrap stock and experiment and practice.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)