Replies

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | May 27, 2005 06:22pm | #1

   I can get darn close with my table saw..but always trim with a Veritas bullnose shoulder plane.

   Like anything else, using a shoulder plane takes a little bit of skill.  But it's easily learned..and those are good to have anyway!

   lp

2. 
   WillGeorge | May 27, 2005 06:46pm | #2

   I can get REALLY close with my router. Dead-On!

   However, if I use my table saw I can get dead-on with my Incra fence..

   I have a good dado blade but hardly ever use it? No reason cept a pain to change blades!

   Just using my tenoning jig (used sometimes) I finish off with my Stanley #90. I have to admit though that sometimes I get the fit I want just using a block of hard wood with some sandpaper glued to it (90 degree wrap)

    

    

1. 
   MarkRD | May 27, 2005 07:02pm | #4

   I've recently learned that I can get "dead on" with my router, a horizontal mount router table and my dial indicator.For example, If I use a 1/4" router bit - which is pretty damn close (within +/- .010) to cut my mortise.Then I set up my router with a 3/4" straight bit in the horizontal jig.measure the stock to be tenoned with the dial caliper. For example it might be, after planing, .7125 (slightly under 3/4" of an inch). (I started with old lumber that had a finish on it and I needed to remove the finish)Subtract off the thickness of the mortis (.250) then divide the remainder by two (.7125-.250 = .4625, .4625/2 = .23125).Then set my router up to .231 or .232. I do this with scrap wood until the cut is right. (don't forget to set the lenght of the cut as well)Then pass my stock under the cutter, flip it over and cut the other side. A perfectly centered Tenon. You can knock the ends of the tenon off by readjusting the router or on the bandsaw.This was my first attempt doing mortise and tenon joints and I was surprisingly successful at getting tight joints.Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

   View Image

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 29, 2005 09:42pm | #8

   Subtract off the thickness of the mortis (.250) then divide the remainder by two (.7125-.250 = .4625, .4625/2 = .23125).

   Then set my router up to .231 or .232. I do this with scrap wood until the cut is right. (don't forget to set the length of the cut as well)

    

   DAMN ya my old Algebra teacher?? I got lost on that one!

3. 
   DougF | May 27, 2005 06:55pm | #3

   I get dead-on tenons with with the tenoning jig on the TS  or the dado mounted on the radial arm saw.  Of the two, the RAS is the more accurate and I can cut the cheeks and shoulders without having to adjust placement, only blade height.  The RAS is particularly good for long through-tenons.

1. 
   tfk3160 | May 27, 2005 07:09pm | #5

   When you use a tenon jig do you cut the cheeks first then knock the wood off to form the shoulders or shoulders first.  To get dead on do you sneak up using scrap or are you marking very accurately or none of the above.

4. 
   JeffHeath | May 27, 2005 07:15pm | #6

   I use a Clifton 410, and a LN rabbeting block plane.  Both are full width blade configurations, and allow you to clean up, or shave right up the shoulder.  When I make my chairs, or any other M & T joint, I always figure on having to fit the joints by shaving a little off.

   Jeff

5. 
   Frozen | May 27, 2005 07:36pm | #7

   I find that the fit of the tenon right off the jig depends on how many I'm going to make. If I'm making several, it's worth the fiddly effort to get it so all those tenons fit perfectly.

   If I'm making just one (or maybe two), I will be fiddling either with the tenoning jig or with the sholder plane, so I tend to get as close as I can with one pass (and it's pretty close, erring on the too-thick side by less than a 64th), then tune the joint with the plane.