Replies

1. 
   jako17 | Dec 04, 2003 05:46am | #1

   The allowance you need to give depends on your climate/humidity fluctuation during the year.Also if you build in a humid time of the year the drawer will only get smaller as it dries out.The problems start when you build at a dry time and don't leave enough space

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 04, 2003 08:32pm | #4

   Jako,

   What are you making your drawer boxes out of? Baltic birch plywood? Poplar?

   If you're using solid wood, grain/growth ring orientation is important to consider when cutting and assembling your drawer parts: as the boards try to flatten themselves out (warp), you don't want them to get stuck in their openings.

   I like to build drawer boxes made from solid wood slightly oversize and plane them to fit, both in height and width. How much of a gap, depends on the time of year, relative humidity, etc.

   Even with plywood it's important that the stock acclimates to achieve equilibrium moisture content before machining and assembly take place - ply that's too wet won't have the same fit after it's dried out.

   When I'm trying to achieve a piston fit, I like to shellac, sand, and wax the interior of the carcase.

   In any case, how much of an allowance depends on the kind of fit you're trying to achieve and the conditions under which the drawers are being assembled (warm, hmid shop in summer?) relative to the conditions in which they'll see daily use (inside a house with forced air heat in winter?).

   Good luck,PaulWhether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   yotonyb | Dec 04, 2003 09:53pm | #5

   For hardwood drawer boxes...

   "A nickel in the winter and a dime in the summer."

   I have to attribute that to someone else in the forum thought I can't remember who!  Plywood construction would be considerably more stable so a tighter fit all year round might be attainable.

   The dollar bill is the ideal.  If you can achieve that fit all year long, go for it!

   tony b.

2. 
   CharlieP | Dec 04, 2003 06:09am | #2

   Only one dollar?  I was taught to use 1/16 inch on each side, though I usually try to do a little less than that. 

3. 
   BobSmalser | Dec 04, 2003 02:40pm | #3

   Drawer fit that remains perfect over the seasons is somewhat of an art, and depends a lot on local climate.

   Drawers...especially large ones...I made years ago in VA that were perfect there require planing when moved to Puget Sound.

   I make 'em tight...less than a 16th...and resign myself to adjusting them later if necessary....a perfectly-fitting drawer riding on parafin-lubed hardwood can be slick as glass and never require steel drawer slides for even the heaviest of contents.

4. 
   stephengaal | Dec 05, 2003 03:55pm | #6

   Drawers fronts don't expand much along their length.  The dollar bill should be fine, although I can't usually get it that close.  It is more likely the drawer fron,t sides and back have expanded vertically and that is where they bind.  At least that is what happens to me.

   Stephen J. Gaal

5. 
   ChasStanford | Dec 06, 2003 03:29am | #7

   Scant sixteenth.

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 06, 2003 03:49pm | #8

   A very old cabinet maker that I knew once showed me how he used to make drawers for Biggs ( a Va based company that made Williamsburg style reproductions).

   The drawer was smaller than the opening. 3/4 inch wide mahoghany strips were then glued to the sides of the drawer (along the botom edge). The strips were maybe 1/8 inch thick.

   To fit the drawers he would run a plane up and down the strips until they fit precisely. Then they would drive and countersink a couple of brads.It is a neat idea and alot easier than trying to plane the entire side of a drawer.

   Has anyone else ever seen this done.

   Frank

1. 
   PeterDurand | Dec 06, 2003 06:23pm | #9

   Thanks for that.

   Cheers,

   Peter 

2. 
   ChasStanford | Dec 06, 2003 07:54pm | #11

   good idea; never thought of it.

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 07, 2003 03:33am | #12

   CS,

   It really seems like a very clever way to do it, don't you think? Every time I talked with him he taught me something like that.

   Once he shook his finger at me once and said, "Your problem is that you want to have thirty years experience all at once and never make mistakes."

   I pleaded guilty.

   Poor old fellow died last week at 90. He was a patient and a friend; a real gentleman. You should have seen his work- museum quality reproductions. I won't match it.

   Frank

1. 
   yotonyb | Dec 07, 2003 05:05am | #13

   It's funny how a good teacher like that can share a lifetime of wisdom, provide us with a valuable tip that makes life easier or our work better, and we actually perform that one task like we really did have 30 years of experience.

   That's a rare, and much appreciated, gift!

   tony b.

3. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Dec 07, 2003 12:24pm | #14

   Frank,

   Just come in after a weekend away.

   What you describe is the way we fit them, except the drawer guide is attached by screws to the carcase.

   Advantage:  As the timber moves with humidity swings, you don't end up with a cupped board and a binding drawer, as the drawer guides are 10mm (3/8"), holding the drawer sides that far away from the sides of the carcase.

   Cheers,

   eddie

1. 
   user-91204 | Dec 07, 2003 06:30pm | #15

   Found an article in the FW archives called "Drawer Bottoms" ( very old in black and white days) which details a fitting method similar to the old gentleman's mention above. The article calls it the NK drawer. The jest of it is that a rail is  placed on the bottom of the drawer and extends 1/8" out to the sides.

   This allows for easier fitting since your only have the rail in contact with the drawer sides. Solves seasonal problems also,  since the small amount of wood in contact is less likely to cause as much a problem as the whole drawer sides would. 

   This is used in Swedish furniture according to the article.

   Seems like a good way to go for drawer construction.

6. 
   watkinsjd | Dec 06, 2003 07:36pm | #10

   I recently toured the Stickley Furniture plant in Syracuse.  They use the same rule YOTONYB quoted:  "nickle in the summer, dime in the winter".  Course, depends on your climate if the piece is never going to move.

   If anyone is in the Syracuse area on a Tuesday morning they do tours at 10 AM.  Very informal, you are right in the middle of the factory floor and you get to see some incredible stuff being built.  I heartly recommend it.

   JW