I’ve read many search results and haven’t found my question, so…
l’m building a drill press cabinet and am using side mount full extension slides. It dawned on me as I was in design I’ve never installed side mount slides. The cabinet casework is all final milled at this point and it strikes me that it would be easier and more efficient to install the case side hardware before I glue up the cabinet rather than installing them after.
Thoughts / concerns?
Replies
Might be true, worst case is spinning out the screws to re-do it if something changes. My shop proects always seem to change as I get closer to the end.
My last one wound up with unplanned split drawers with top trays opening backwards.
While I obviously don’t know the design/construction of your cabinet, I’ll share some thoughts I’ve had in the past. First is that no matter how precisely I mill pieces, etc., things never turn out to be quite the measurements—depth, width, squareness, etc.—the plans suggest I should have. Case in point: In building a tool cabinet recently, in which I installed side-mount full-extension slides, the width of the (frameless) opening turned out to be about 3/8” less than the plans called for; I had waited to mill the pieces for the drawers just in case of such a discrepancy, recognizing that there’s only so much “play” allowable in the drawer slides, so the drawers had to be made to fit the opening - space for slides. In addition, I waited to make the final drawer after all the others were made and installed, to ensure that it fit the vertical space available.
I was also able in this case to take advantage of the frameless opening to mount slides to the interior of the cabinet in order to best accommodate the drawer, and doing so with the cabinet vertical so that I could ensure the slides would be horizontal. Access to the inside of the cabinet wasn’t unduly limiting. (Note: the drawers take up only the bottom third or so of the cabinet. Above that is open shelves/storage area, with a pair of doors mounted in front of that portion.)
I’ve found in the past that if I mount slides before assembling the carcass, I sometimes find that one slide sits just a little lower than the other, or one or more isn’t quite level. A drawer that’s a little cattywampus, or wants to slide open on its own (or won’t do the self-closing thing), or whatever, drives me kinda nutso.
Anyway, my two cents’ worth. Regardless, I wish you the best of luck with your project.
I'd finish the case and then install the slides. To help with the install and accuracy, use a rectangular MDF scrap template to get the slides equal height from the base.
Unless the cabinet is very narrow (in my experience it's only been an issue once, with very narrow banks of drawers on a small vanity) and getting my drill and driver (and hand...) in after assembly is difficult, I almost always find it easier to install hardware after assembly. As Elmaduro recommends, I cut scrap pieces to rest the bottom of the hardware on and use my combination square to dial in the backset from the front of the case. I then hold it in place with one hand and pre-drill with a centering bit with the other. It goes quickly and works well.
Thank you, all.
It can be awkward mounting slides in a built cabinet. Installing prior to assembly is easier and more accurate.
That said I use a drilling guide.
I was going to say don’t do it, but then I realized that the European 32mm system does exactly that. So if you feel your accuracy is on par with an eleventy-gazillion dollar machine, it can definitely work. In all seriousness, though, as others have implied doing it slides-first does put pressure on you to make the cabinet that much more accurately since one of your pathways to final fitting will be closed off. As the saying goes, if you can’t make it fit, make it adjustable.
Thanks again to all. I installed the outboards before assembly and am doing the drawers up now. Two down, three to go. So far, only one glitch… a design issue completely my fault and not really impacted by the “early” slide installation. My error can be, I think, fixed easily. It helps that I’m letting the drawer heights run “to fit.” Hey, it’s a learning project!
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