Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 20, 2005 05:47pm | #1

   Marc,

   Whether reduced in alcohol, acetone, or water, some dyes are more lightfast than others. Oil-based dyes that are reducible/thinned in naptha are not the most lightfast (less prone to fading). The best performance can be expected from the metallized aniline dyes. Some brands in this category include;

   • Mohawk Ultra Penetrating Stains (http://mohawk-finishing.com/)
   • Homestead Finishing Products Transtints/Transfast (www.homesteadfinishing.com)
   • Wood Finishing Supplies Color Fx (http://woodfinishingsupplies.com)
   • Sherwin-Williams Chemical Coatings Stores Dye Concentrates (check phone book)

   When you get these dye concentrates, you can reduce/thin them to control how dark they are. They're really too dark to use without thinning. The more thinner you use, the lighter the color. Just pick a color that loooks good to you and follow the thinning guidelines that comes with the dye to mix a samll test batch. Then do a color sample on a scrap, the larger the better, and decide if you want to thin more or less (lighter or darker). You'll need to apply your clear topcoats (e.g., varnish/poly, shellac, lacquer, etc.) over the dye once it's dry to evaluate the color. Keep close track of the thinning ratios you use and measure the proportions as carefully as you can. Once you find the color you like, mix a batch large enough for the pedestal table.

   I usually like to use light to medium earth tones on furniture. If the dye is too dark, it tends to reduce the impact of the figure. Here's a sample I did with a clear finish on the left, and dye on the right;

   View Image

   Paul S
   Website

1. 
   Tao | Feb 20, 2005 07:02pm | #2

   Well put, Paul, and right on the mark as usual.

   I can't for the life of me understand why the word hasn't got out more about these metallized dye stains.  They are so much easier to use and more versatile that there's just no comparison.  Not to mention colorfastness and the fact that the colors are generally better.

   I had to use some powdered stains on a large (whole house) job last year due to availability problems, and I can't believe what a pain it was trying to measure and mix that stuff on site (especially when I spilled a little of the powder).  Plus, I wasn't comfortable knowing that the color wood fade pretty quick.  The only reason I went with it was that it was going under a pigmented stain and glaze, and I knew the wood would darken as the dye faded.

   It's so great to be able to duplicate a color mix precisely from sample to final application, and to control the density and look of the stain by choice of solvent, and then to be able to use the same product in a toner to even things up at the end, if needed.  I doubt I'll ever use any other kind of dye stain except on restorations where authenticity is important.

   You do such a good job that maybe you could expand your comments a little and put them where a person could just post a link rather than repeating the same old stuff over and over?

   Michael R

2. 
   Jaimeson | Feb 21, 2005 09:31pm | #3

   Great,

   Thanks Paul, I'm going to give it try and let you know.

   I appreciate the help.

   Marc L.