Replies

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Jan 28, 2001 11:49am | #1

   *
   * 1. After cutting and shooting the end grain square to the faces and edges, a shoulder line is marked on both pieces to be joined with a cutting gauge. (Workers vary in their preferences, but I set the gauge a hair’s breadth less than the thickness of the timber. This just prevents the end grain of the pins coming through during assembly of the joint, allowing easy additional cramping if needed.)
   * 2. Decide how many tails are required.
   * 3. Pick a convenient width of bevelled edge chisel to fit between the tails.
   *4. Mark approximately 2/3rds. of the selected chisels width on the shoulder line to locate the half pins on both edges. Carry one of these marks along the edge of the board with a pencil line (use the finger marking gauge method.)
   * 5. Hold a rule at an angle between the half pin marks already established in step 4 above to find a convenient multiple to suit the number of pins you are including. Mark these points and carry them to the shoulder line with a pencil and set square. These marks set the centre point of the tails between the full pins.
   * 6. Hold the width of the selected chisel to bisect this point, and mark lines either side of the chisel across the shoulder line with a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil.
   * 7. Hold the stock of a set adjustable bevel gauge on the end grain, and pencil in the rake (bevel) of the dovetails.
   * 8. Square the raked lines across the end grain and cut the dovetails from one side, using only the two marked lines as a guide; trust your skill. Clear the waste, define the shoulder line and use the cut dovetails to transfer and mark the positions of the pins on to the matching piece. Now cut these.

   Laying out the joint this way provides that,
   * 1. The gap between the tails is just right for your chisel.
   * 2. The rake of the dovetails is adjustable to suit the job in hand. For carcase construction and softwoods, a rake of about 1 in 5, or 1 in 6 is typical. A steeper rise than this leads to weak short grain. A rise of 1 in 8, or 1 in 9 is the norm for fine work (e.g., drawers, delicate boxes) and hardwoods. Much less than 1 in 10, and the locking property of the dovetail begins to wane, and the accuracy required to cut an effective joint rises significantly.

   I hope this is clear and helps. Sliante.

1. 
   Rich_Katz | Feb 07, 2001 06:06am | #2

   *Frank Klausz' video would probably be a good source for someone like you who has experience handcutting dovetails. It's only about 10-15 minutes long, but it's straight-forward. What you'll see on the video is that there is no magic to selecting the size of the side pins. Klausz' method does not rely on math and rulers. I saw him in action once and it was remarkable. Plan on making lots of practice cuts to get comfortable with the process. Good luck.

1. 
   Don_Stephan | Feb 21, 2001 03:32pm | #3

   *Interesting look at strength of different dovetail designs in latest issue of FWW.

1. 
   Emerson | Feb 21, 2001 11:07pm | #4

   *Thanks for the responses. I actually found my binders from when I was in school for my apprenticeship (12 years ago!)and I found a page in there on how we originally learned dovetails.I knew there is supposed to be no real math or rulers to it, just your own personal style of where you want the pins and tails and that piece of paper I found was just enough of a catalyst to jog my memory. Thanks for all the responses.Emerson

1. 
   FERNANDO_LEAL | Mar 17, 2001 01:17am | #5

   *Why and when do I use a hunched tenon?. The same question for a double tenon. I am just starting in wood working and I hope there is someone tolerant to rookies.

2. 
   Mike_Maines | Mar 19, 2001 12:20am | #6

   *Fernando, you'll get plenty of responses if you post on the main board, not under Emerson's thread. Go to the bottom of the main board and click on "add discussion".MM