Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jul 14, 2006 05:52pm | #1

   A tightly fitted set of mortise and tenons, in a hardwood, might be adequate to prevent racking for a low coffee table, but a single, or double, stretcher would add considerable strength to any size table and would be a necessity, in my opinion, for a dining table. 

   The stretcher could be placed against the underside of the top, and would hardly be noticed, or it could be closer to the floor and used as a design element.

   The stretcher will have to be firmly locked into uprights to be functional.  As a rough guide, a single 8" wide or a pair of 6" wide stretchers would seem about right for a full size table.

   Other treatments are possible but something should be incorporated into the design to help the legs resist racking forces.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

2. 
   Timberwerks | Jul 14, 2006 06:29pm | #2

   I used M&T joints for this table and it is very stable. I was just at the clients home recently to take measurements for another project, while there I took a look at the table, it's doing very well. The client said she had caught her grandchildren sitting on it a couple times, the M&T joints did just fine.

   View Image Timberwerks_Cherry_Slab_Coffee_003.jpg 98KB	View Image Timberwerks_Cherry_Slab_Coffee_004.jpg 93KB
   View Image Timberwerks_Cherry_Slab_Coffee_005.jpg 81KB	View Image Timberwerks_Cherry_Slab_Coffee_007.jpg 101KB
   View Image Timberwerks_Cherry_Slab_Coffee_009.jpg 87KB	View Image Timberwerks_Cherry_Slab_Coffee_013.jpg 99KB

1. 
   Rooms | Jul 25, 2006 04:47pm | #4

    

   Sorry for the delay in reply. Thank you for the advise, and those great pictures! I love them, a great inspiration for my project!

   Two follow up issues. Are you using Wenge for the bow-ties? Also, how do you treat the edges, I'm thinking of brass wire brushing to remove any loose fiber and then a green pad to smooth but not remove too much material. What do you recommend?

   Thanks again.

1. 
   Timberwerks | Jul 25, 2006 05:03pm | #5

   Yes, the bow-ties are Wenge. To do the live edges I first used a drawknife to remove bark and punky sap wood. Next step was a brass wire brush. From that point it was hand sanding starting with 180 grit then 220,300, final sanding was done with 400. I used a foam backing pad for sanding. Following sanding I burnished the live edge with Liberon steel wool 0000, then a flannel cloth. It's a little tedious but well worth the effort. Looking back I think ending the process with 0000 steel wool is just fine.

   Dale

    

1. 
   Little_Joe | Aug 05, 2006 05:42pm | #6

   Dale,I just had to say Thank you for sharing your project.Absolutely stunning and beautiful!You have done a great job!Thanks again
   lj

1. 
   Timberwerks | Aug 05, 2006 06:16pm | #7

   Thanks LJ

   I have a few more similar projects I am working on now. One has bookmatched slabs. I should have these completed & photographed late fall early winter, I'll post pics as they are completed. This time I will use better lighting & a back drop.

   Dalehttp://www.timberwerksstudio.com

2. 
   bufun | Aug 06, 2006 02:20pm | #8

   Timberwerks, just saw a picture of your cherry slab table. Wow, very impressive. Amazing good work.
   Bufun

3. 
   wrudiger | Jul 14, 2006 10:43pm | #3

   I'm wondering if sliding dovetails would work well in this situation? Looks like you plan to have the legs and top be the same width.  Could look pretty cool.  I wouldn't consider it unless you did the stretchers though.