Replies

1. 
   roc | Oct 02, 2008 11:25am | #1

   I would attach the blocks to the slate and then screw into the blocks from inside the cabinet. Slot the holes for the screws through the cabinet so cabinet can move a little. I don't like the idea of two different materials glued up rigid. If you go that way you may want to use a rubbery adhesive like contact cement , builders adhesive or plastic rubber.

   Or you could weld some screws to sheet metal and glue that to the slate with the screws hanging down through holes in cabinet rails and put washers and nuts on.

   here are epoxy manufacturer info sites that I use:
   http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.asp

   http://www.westsystem.com/

   Another way to go if the top is thicker is to drill blind holes on under side into slate and put some type of anchor (zert certs) into the holes with epoxy. You could get it drilled at a marble counter and tile place if you are not up to it. zertcerts are aircraft anchors. Not sure of spelling. So effectively you have nuts glued into slate and can then put machine thread screws through cabinet and into nuts glued into slate. Get a bottoming tape to clean insert threads of stray epoxy.

   I will be following this with interest. I am currently using an old school house slate for our dinning table top until I finish our bubinga dinning table. I will then probably saw up the slate to make smaller table tops similar to yours. Slate not best for dinning table; too cold on the arms and food. Sucks the heat out of you in a cold climate. Looking forward to finishing our wood table!

   Good luck

   
   

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   Edited 10/2/2008 4:30 am by roc

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 02, 2008 02:42pm | #2

   Any counter shop can drill these and insert tapped brass plugs for you. Then, it's just like any other table top -- or kitchen sink for that matter. ;-)

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   ktkamm | Oct 02, 2008 03:04pm | #3

   Thanks Mike and Roc for the suggestions.

   I have some slate I can "practice" on. Do you think the drilling is something that I could do in my shop. I vave some brass inserts for wood (threaded inside and out) and imagine I could drill oversize holes and epoxy them in to the slate. I don't anticipate the screws to be subjected to a lot of force.  Thanks again.  Kieran

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 02, 2008 03:17pm | #4

   Whether or not you can do this in your shop depends on what type of tooling you have and how much extra slate you have to practice on. ;-)

   Don't know what the pros use to drill the stuff (diamond?), but they almost certainly water cool the bit for the process. (Heck, the insides of those shops are like water parks -- *everything* is spraying water everwhere.)

   I've done this once or twice by building a clay dam around the hole, filling it with water, and then VERY carefully drilling with a high-quality masonry drill and bit -- like an SDS on "drill", no "hammer". The brass inserts the pros use are knurled on the outside, and threaded for a machine screw on the inside.

   It would only cost a few bucks to have it done by a shop -- might be worth checking out.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

   Edit: I was thinking "granite" so much, I forgot you were talking slate. Much softer. Since you have extra, I'd give it a go. Let us know if/how it works.

   Edited 10/2/2008 8:18 am ET by MikeHennessy

1. 
   ktkamm | Oct 02, 2008 03:22pm | #5

   Thanks again

2. 
   sapwood | Oct 02, 2008 07:02pm | #6

   This needn't be complicated. Why don't you just use a few bits of that foam filled double stick tape? It's a small top, the tape will hold it in position and a thin knife will allow for removal if necessary.

1. 
   ktkamm | Oct 02, 2008 09:01pm | #7

   What and not get the chance to over engineer something!!

   Thanks,  Kieran

2. 
   roc | Oct 06, 2008 01:47am | #8

   >double backed foam tapeNah dude Nah,The tape is a good idea for short term stuff but in a decade it will break down and give out and then somebody is doing to drop this table while they carry it. On a flight of stairs or out the back of a U-haul this could be disastrous.Unless I misscombobulate, the slate is over hanging and will be what one grasps when lifting. Otherwise just set it in a recess in the frame with no connecting apparratie.

2. 
   ktkamm | Nov 07, 2008 01:56am | #9

   This is in follow-up to an earlier question I posted. I ended up drilling the slate and using epoxy to attach threaded inserts. I am quite pleased with how it worked out. Thanks for all the help to all. Kieran

   
1. 
   MikeHennessy | Nov 07, 2008 02:02am | #10

   OK . . . THAT oughta hold it! ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

2. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 07, 2008 07:42pm | #11

   But, the threaded inserts are different colors! ;-)

3. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 09, 2008 03:43pm | #12

   How to attach? A few dabs of silicon caulk! Ok so maybe not survive an earthquake.

1. 
   ktkamm | Nov 09, 2008 06:18pm | #13

   It is a "bedside table" and sometimes you never know how much " a shakin" will be going on in that room!