It won’t be but a few more years that all my tools will be antiques, but this on was an antique when I bought it. I think it’s called a “slick” which also describes how it works. At the little junk shop where I bought it I remember thinking it was a really cool big chisel but did not realise how useful it would be. Just a few days later, at the job site, we were attempting to slide one end of a 6 x 16 beam into a pocket we had framed for it in a wall and we discovered that the end of the beam was about 1/4″ taller than the pocket. Not wanting to go to the work of getting the big beam down from the temporary support we had it setting on, I remembered the slick I had behind the seat of my truck. With just a few quick strokes to the last 6″ of the bottom of the beam cleanly removed the 1/4″ excess thickness and the beam slid right into the pocket and my “new” slick paid for itself instantly. A couple of years after that I learned how valuable of a tool it was for doing timber framing, cleaning up and adjusting tenons and mortises. I also cut some curved knee braces for a hammer beam truss with the chain saw and the slick did an excellent job of cleaning up and smoothing the knees after cutting. I used it most recently this week dressing the face of some tenons on a workbench I built. . There being no makers marks or identification on the tool, I have no idea who made it, where it was made or how old it might be. I was hoping someone out there could help me out. . The tool is 39″ in length and has a 3 1/2″ wide cutting edge of excellent laminated steel which will become scarey sharp with little effort. It operates just like a big chistle except that you don’t hit it with a mallot, you slide it along and allow it’s wieght, inertia and sharpness to remove the wood in thin ribbons.
Replies
bduff,
As you've noticed, a
bduff,
As you've noticed, a slick is naturally in the timber framer's toolkit. Occasionally found in cabinet shops.
A tool of that weight with an edge that broad is indeed scary when sharp. Do you have a sheath for it? I've seen quite a few with a largish knob worked on the end of the handle, so that it can comfortably used shoulder powered.
The lack of a maker's mark might indicate that it was blacksmith made, definitely so if the socket for the handle shows where the metal was lapped over. In your photo, it looks as if that might be the case.
Ray
On the sharpening bevel you can plainly see the lamination of the steel. I'm not sure what you meant by "where the metal was lapped over" at the socket.
I love using this tool. I'd like to know more about it.
bdiff,
On some handmade socket chisels, the socket for the handle was formed at the forge by flattening a section of the blade material, and simple wrappinbg it around a taperd (cone-shaped) mandrel. often you can see the seam where the edges of the stock were lapped over one another , and forge welded together.
Factory made items, like your Ohio Tool slick, were forged by more or less poking a tapered hole into a thick section of the blade blank, and ones forged this way have no seam of course.
Blades made of mild steel were often laminated to a carbon (tool) steel slip, which saved money, as the tool steel was itself more expensive, and, I'm told, somewhat more time consuming to forge to shape.
Ray
Ray,
You didn't give
Ray,
You didn't give sufficient homage to the SLICK. You say it is mostly a tool for timber framers.
But what about the joiner who is making a nice dovetailed box that is 8' x 12' x 5' and that uses 4" thick hard maple. A nice slick would come in handy in paring those pins. Of course, that box could either be used for very large jewelry, or as a house for a St. Berard. When you think about it that way, there really is very little difference between making big and small boxes. Actually the difference is mostly in size. (although I guess there is a difference in weight too).
Mel
Mel:
If you need a jewelry box that is 8' x 12' x 5 then,
a) You are very rich, or,
b) Very stupid, or,
c) some combination of a) and b)
H
d) a giant
d) a giant
Hi mate
It looks and sounds like a real cool tool, I was very tempted to get this http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&cat=1,41131,62599&p=62599 but at this point in time not anticipating doing any 8 foot jewelery boxes
wot
Hastings,
If you buy the LV Slick, be sure to get that blade guard. Can you imagine wearing that slick on your belt and having it cut your ankles as you walk. YOU NEED THE BLADE GUARD.
There is a tool at Woodcraft that has a cutter at one end and an awl at the other. It is about six inches long. I have often wondered how you'd carry it. Either way, it will cut through your pocket and cut you if you come down on top of it.
So I bought one. Very handy. I just leave it on my bench, laying down. Haven't cut myself with it yet.
This tool that I am talking about was described by Adam Cherubini in the Book, "Hand Tool Essentials". He says that they were used in previous centuries. The only difference between the two is that the old ones had a single bevel on the cutting side, and the modern ones have a double bevel. Well, like you, I do everything that Adam recommends, so I ground it down and put a single bevel on. Works like a charm. Very sharp.
Then I read Rob Cosman's book about dovetailing and he says that you get a better, easier to use, mark if you use a dull knife, So I dulled the cutter. Darn, you just can't please everybody.
Have fun.
Mel
Hi Mel
I remember those little do-hickeys from when I was a kid doing woodwork at school. We each had a box of tools and that device was a part of it. The main use we had for it was to attract the attention of another kid via a butt jab, or impaling flies of which there were many.
I don't think I will invest in a slick at the mo as there are quite a few other things on my wish list. I have a nephew who has just returned from Switzerland and has settled near his dear ole uncle. He followed a young lass there, married her and then did an apprenticeship as a carpenter with a guy that built log cabins and Swiss Chalets. I guess he would have a couple of these slicks and I am looking forward to going through his tool inventory when I return to Oz.
Re the slick, the only use I could put it to at he present is trimming my toenails or peeling apples.
wot
I got my terminology mixed up and thought you were speaking of a "float".
I offer this website as a source for floats which seem to accomplish the work of a slick, but on the more detailed and fine work of cabinetry. These are VERY sharp.
The link to floats:
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/iwasaki_floats.htm
Slick Update! After careful examination with a magnifying glass I did indeed find a faint makers marks, Ohio Tool Co.
Anybody know anything about that.
I googled Ohio Tool Co. and found out that they made wooden bodied planes of all shapes and sizes, chisels, workbenches and of course slicks. They went out of business in 1920. The was an ad in one catalouge for a delux woodworkers bench with two vises and drawers and a door for storage below for $14.50.
I've seen 'em 3-1/2" wide,
I've seen 'em 3-1/2" wide, but never 39" long... WOW.
PS: Anybody else notice the new expanding text box which I typed this reply in? Fahn-kay (Funky)
I found my slick at an antique store, as well. Mine appears to be about the same size, but has a bit more of a knob at the end of the handle. Although I felt good when I "rescued" it, I haven't actually had occasion to put it to use. Sure looks cool, though.
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