Replies

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Jan 01, 2001 11:42pm | #1

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   The main problem with the existing shutters is likely to be the fact that they were made of pine, most species of which are not really noted for exterior applications. The dovetail groove suggestion seems superficially attractive, but the tongue of the panel couldn't be a dovetail to match because the panel needs to float for shrinkage and expansion. I think I'd stick to timbers noted for their ability to withstand exterior conditions coupled with the traditional joinery you mentioned. The inside of grooves, etc., can be sealed/varnished/painted prior to assembly. Such timbers might be white oak, mahogany (swietienia species) cypress, etc.. I'm not sure (from personal experience) how spanish cedar copes with exterior applications, so no comment on it. Sliante.

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jan 03, 2001 10:03am | #2

   *D.J.In my house building days, when they weren't slapped together in a week, cedar was the norm for all exterior trim, and cedar siding was common, in fact next to slate, cedar is the longest lasting roofing material. Cedar is very decay resistant, it's used as fence posts and the planking of hulls on boats, Port Orford Cedar being the most perfered. Sgian's advice on the dado vs. dovetail is right on. Cypress is also a very good alternative. I admit to not being familiar with Spanish Cedar, so I can't make an informed comment on that subject. I am a firm believer in the use of oil base primer and paint on exterior wood, it penetrates much deeper than latex, thereby preserving the wood longer.Dano

1. 
   D_J_Kelley | Jan 03, 2001 08:01pm | #3

   *Thanks for the input. Sorry for the confusion; I was a bit unclear in my description of the situation. The "male" part of the Dovetail would only apply at the ends of the rails and the "female" part would serve both to accept the tail on the rails and the traditional flat tongue portion of the raised panel. The plan would also include some sort of applied molding on the stiles and rails to dress the shutter up a bit and keep the panel tight without limiting seasonal movement. My primary question is whether you guys feel this type of joint would be superior to the M&T joint in terms of not opening up over time and if it would offer similar resistance to racking if it were glued and doweled. Thanks and again, what a great forum.

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jan 04, 2001 02:32am | #4

   *D.J.Stick with mortise and tenon joints, if you are that concerned about the joint opening use a good quality marine glue and use pegged mortise and tenon joints. I would caution you, however, against an applied moulding in view of your implied concerns regarding wheathering and wood movement. On approach to take is to get a set of rail and stile cutters. I have a 2 in 1 bit by CMT that works extremely well and set up is much easier. Hope this helps.Dano

1. 
   D_J_Kelley | Jan 05, 2001 01:29am | #5

   *Thanks Sgian & Dano. Guess mortise and tenon it is. I have stile and rail cutters (beleive it or not, I'm in the Window Mfg. business). The suggestions to prime the panel groove and to use marine glue are excellent.D J