I am trying, and failing, to make two jigs (one for the lid and one for the box) for making repeated boxes with sliding dovetail lids. I’m using a bearing guided dovetail bit. I want a fit that is not so tight it can’t be slid open but not too loose that it falls out with gravity. Here’s what I’ve tried:
Before I thought of the jig idea, I just used a regular dovetail jig in the router table and inched the fence over to make the lid to match the box. This worked ok but I kept making the lid too skinny so the lid slid out too eaisily. This also doesn’t work well for making multiple boxes at different times since I have to reset the fence exactly each time I want to do it.
Today has been nothing but frustration in trying to make two jigs, one for the body one for the lid. I’m using a bearing guided dovetail bit and two parallel pieces of wood routing between the pieces to make the cut in the box body. Then another jig with a piece of wood as wide as the gap between the rails on the other jig with the lid under it. I thought this would work but it doesn’t. Too loose.
Who can give me some direction on how to make a perfect sliding dovetail lidded box, WITHOUT buying a Leigh jig.
Jeffrey
Edited 9/9/2002 4:23:40 PM ET by Bengst
Edited 9/9/2002 4:24:43 PM ET by Bengst
Replies
How about cutting it to a too tight fit, and then fitting it with a hand plane? I do all of my M&T this way, with the L-N rabbit (sp) plane, with good speed and fit. I also did some sliding dovetails, and brought it to final fit (loose enough to assemble) with some 220 grit PSA on a small block of Corian (sp) cut for the purpose. BTW, I cut the dovetails on my router table. On yours, perpaps the lid has the angle smaller at the top (I would think) and so lowering the bit, a bit, makes the cut heavier, and the lid narrower. Hence, the final adjustment is a depth of cut issue. But since you are cutting the entire length, this comment is iekly irrelevant.
Oh, that I could spell.
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