Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 17, 2006 07:06pm | #1

   If you're using a sliding dovetail to hold an object or piece in motion or that carries considerable weight, a wider angle of 14* is not necessarily the best approach. The wider the flared angle, the more stress on the narrow angle. I would stick with a traditional 7-10 degrees.

    

1. 
   murphreejz | Apr 18, 2006 06:40am | #7

   Very good point; I hadn't thought about the narrow part and the stresses it would incur. Thanks for the advice.

2. 
   Routerman | Apr 17, 2006 08:10pm | #2

   Not all the answers, but likely to answer some of your questions.

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 17, 2006 08:54pm | #3

   Pat,

   I really liked your book. It's a great reference for all router based applications. 

2. 
   murphreejz | Apr 18, 2006 06:42am | #8

   Routerman, thanks for the link. That actually has a ton of useful information that answers many of my questions exactly. Super helpful... Thanks again!

3. 
   pzgren | Apr 17, 2006 10:07pm | #4

   Mtn,

   This article has a couple of the answers you're looking for:

   http://www.furnituremasters.org/moreby.cfm?ID=26

   This one has some tapered sliding DT pics and techniques toward the bottom:

   http://www.springharvestfww.com/shakershelveswebpage.htm

   This may or may not be of any use (I didn't go all the way thru it...)

   http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/handtools.pl?noframes;read=80267

   Hope that some of this is of use to you.

   James

    

1. 
   murphreejz | Apr 18, 2006 06:48am | #9

   Thanks James. I've been eyeing some similar plans to the Shaker wall unit, and when I get a second to breathe I think I'll get on it...

   Regards,

   JM

4. 
   hdgis1 | Apr 18, 2006 03:37am | #5

   Why use a tapered sliding dovetail as opposed to a regular one? Seems like an excercise in extravagence...

1. 
   murphreejz | Apr 18, 2006 06:38am | #6

   Not sure I would call it extravagant... From what I gather you'd have better luck breeding an elephant to a pig than getting a 16" sliding dovetail together. Actually, according to many the tapered sliding dovetail is vastly under-utilized, more practical in some cases than a traditional sliding dovetail, and not much more complicated to construct.

   It is merely an option at this point; just wanted a little more feedback as to the dimensioning of said dovetail, and some advice on bits, etc.

   Thanks,

   JM

1. 
   BarryO | Apr 19, 2006 01:32am | #13

   From what I gather you'd have better luck breeding an elephant to a pig than getting a 16" [non-tapered] sliding dovetail together.

   Very, very true!!!

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Apr 18, 2006 04:38pm | #10

   I've built several items with "straight" sliding dovetails. That is a misnomer! They don't "slide" after the first 3"!Then I found out about tapered, sliding dovetail. What a dream. They slip in (at least all of mine did) up till the last few inches, after which they drive home for a snug fit over the full length.Jerry

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Apr 18, 2006 04:45pm | #11

   A while back I posted a description and some photos of the procedure I fiollowed from a Taunton/Lonnie Bird book. To view this look up message # 1250.11.Jerry

1. 
   murphreejz | Apr 21, 2006 07:07pm | #14

   Thanks everyone for all the advice and feedback. I've got a little more reading and thinking to do.

   Have a great weekend!

5. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 18, 2006 08:26pm | #12

   Does this all make sense???? Help!!

   Yes it do! I make them all the time... First off.. I just put some glue in the 'grove' .. sort of in the center.. AND hammer away!

   DO NOT use glue ALL along the slot! MY Opinion only!