Replies

1. 
   ring | Feb 05, 2007 03:38pm | #1

   The female part is trivial, right? All you need is a straight edge to use against the router.

   The male part can be made using the same dovetail bit in the router table, proud of the fence just enough to make one side of the dovetail. you need a high fence because you run the stock along it in upright position. Take small bites from both sides of the piece and creep up gradually on the exact fit. If you take off too much there's no going back.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Feb 05, 2007 04:26pm | #2

   Go to the "Advanced Search" area and enter post 1250.11.

   This is a home made jig which produced a series of "perfect" sliding dovetails.

   Frosty

3. 
   Routerman | Feb 05, 2007 05:23pm | #3

   Some tips.

1. 
   BroLuke | Feb 05, 2007 05:53pm | #4

   Thanks guys,One thing, a friend in passing mentioned I should make them tapered and that has made it more confusing. The scednearioes you have laid out I can grasp but to make a jig that's adjustable or adaptable for different sized tapered or even one tapered jig seems daunting.Any advice / ideas here?Thanks again,Bro. LukeBro.Luke

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Feb 07, 2007 05:35pm | #5

   The home made jig I listed does just what you ask.To rout the slot, offset one side 1/64th inch; to rout the male portion, insert the piece of veneer.Frosty

4. 
   4DThinker | Feb 07, 2007 10:44pm | #6

   To taper the slot I simply make one straight pass, then move one edge of the straight-edge anywhere from 1/32 to 1/16" and reclamp.

   To taper the part sliding in the slot, I use the table-mounted router described above and get the part to fit into the wide end of the slot.  I then move the router bit out another 1/32 or 1/16", and shim the back end of my piece out the same amount.  You can tape a dime on it between it and the fence, or use a piece or two of veneer, or a scrap of laminate.  Just make sure your shim won't be cut off by the router bit.  The narrow end goes into the bit first, thinning it by that 1/32 or 1/16".  The fat end is shimmed, and by the time it reaches the bit nothing will be taken off.

   Hope that helps

    

    

5. 
   starburn | Feb 08, 2007 03:16am | #7

   I've seen some pretty interesting side-mount rigs for routers in fw, heckuva lot easier than the tall sliding jigs for vertical mount.  What I havent seen yet is a rig that lets the router ride a pair of curved rails for quick changing to any angle, I'm trying to design my own, but I'm havin a tough time coming up with something that keeps the bits realitively stationary, with only their angle changing.  All I'd need is a pic, and I could fab the parts at work.