Replies

1. 
   IMERC | Jan 12, 2004 07:01am | #1

   Slide in...

    

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jan 12, 2004 09:11am | #2

   Tom.

   Up out down then push in.

   Cheers,

   eddie

   
   edit: 

   Here's the operating manual for a Makita LS1212 online. I assume the saw is similar to this one.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/12/2004 1:22:30 AM ET by eddie (aust)

3. 
   jhausch | Jan 12, 2004 02:16pm | #3

   Got to use a SCMS the other day for the first time for a job.  I was working with the building trades instructor from the local community college.

   1-He would start the saw in the retracted position
   2-pull it down on its pivot until it just touched the work
   3-pull it toward him on the linear bearings slowly cutting about 1/8" into the work
   4-upon clearing the work while pulling towards him, he'd finish angling it the rest of the way down
   5-Lastly, he'd push the "fully angled down" blade back through the work

   It sounds complicated, but it was done in one smooth, complete motion.  The reason for the "skim" cut was to minimize tearout.

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jan 12, 2004 02:44pm | #5

   Jim,

   What you describe there is how to cut melamine, etc on a SCMS without breakout.  The way I was shown too BUT specifically warned against in the manual (linked above.)

   The risk that you run is that you push the blade in too deeply and get the blade (aggressive negative hook) snagged in the workpiece, which might send the saw assembly running toward you at a rate of knots (kickback), closely followed by the saw spitting out the workpiece and your hand being rapidly moved close to a spinning blade.  A bit frightening.

   Just letting you know what may happen so that you are aware of the "maybe's".

   Cheers

   eddie.

   Edited 1/12/2004 6:57:36 AM ET by eddie (aust)

2. 
   shedhappens | Jan 12, 2004 02:46pm | #6

   hey, great minds think alike.  didn't mean to step on your toes, but I opened my mouth before I read all the responses.

4. 
   shedhappens | Jan 12, 2004 02:43pm | #4

   the reason you contact the blade to the work closest to the fence is to prevent tearout.  if you drop the blade into the work closest to you, then you have the entire length of cut that is subject to tear out.  the former technique allows tear out only at the fence. 

   my personal technique is to drop the blade at the fence, contact the work piece and carefully skate back toward me at about 1/8" depth.  then, as I arrive at my side of the board I finish dropping the blade through the work and push the saw toward the fence to finish the cut.

5. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 12, 2004 02:56pm | #7

   Tom , Are you talking about a 'climb' cut?

   I.ve read all the posts sent to you and don't quite understand.

   There are times when you might have to feed the work backwards into the back of the blade, but rarely Also it's not safe without hold downs and some sort of stop.  Stein

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jan 12, 2004 03:01pm | #8

   Hi Ed,

   It's my impression Tom's talking about a climb cut too.  A definite no-no.

   Anyway, 11pm and I'm off to bed - greetings from Australia.  20C/70F and humid.

   Cheers,

   eddie

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 12, 2004 07:10pm | #9

   Ed, its 11AM and I'm ready for my nap G 'night  Ed.