Replies

1. 
   Lataxe | Feb 23, 2006 08:28pm | #1

   In Europe, many smaller sliding table saws have the sliding table mounted on the side of the saw cabinet, some 8-12 inches from the blade.  The cross cut fence is mounted to the sliding table with its end just clearing the blade when it is set at 90 degrees. 

   The sliding table is set a smidge higher than the main saw table so that the workpiece moves freely over the table saw, ideally just touching but not dragging on the tablesaw surface.   The cross cut fence and its stop keeps the workpiece in place as you push it through the blade by moving the sliding table forward on its rails. Sheppach, Electra-Bekum and Emco (smaller saws) are examples of this type.

   Many such saws have a sliding hold-down mounted on the top of the cross-cut fence, that allows you to clamp larger workpieces to the sliding table.

   Some saws do have a sliding table that runs right next to the blade.  This is probably a better design but tends to appear only on the largest and most powerful saws. Knapp, Felder and Emco (larger saws) make impressive examples of such machines. One advantage is that, because the table travel of such saws is often up to 6 feet or more, wany-edged boards can be ripped straight using the sliding table.  The board is securely clamped with hold-downs built into the sliding table. The wany edge is set to stick out into the blade path. The table is slid and the want edge is ripped off.

   I have never had a problem with the former (smaller) sliding tablesaw, having had 2 different models that worked like this, in 6 years.

   Compared with those mitre slot cross cut fences or giant plywood boxes one sees on American table saws, I think any sliding table design is likely to be safer, more usable and more accurate.  (My British prejudice perhaps) :-)  And then there's our blade-following riving knives, standard on all European saws.  But I digress.

2. 
   TJinFL | Feb 24, 2006 12:51am | #2

   Dave,

   I just recently purchased and installed a MastRslide on my Jet cabinet saw and have used to it cut 24" plywood panels and cut off other stock and have had no problems with the table being 6-8" away from the blade. 

   It's expensive, but well engineered.  Buy one and you won't know how you got along without it!

   Terry

1. 
   Justaccord | Feb 24, 2006 02:55am | #3

   Thanks, Terry and Lataxe. Appreciate the info. Looks like I'm heading for the Jessem.Dave

3. 
   USANigel | Feb 26, 2006 11:11pm | #4

   check out this link for some insight http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/SurveyOfSlidingTables/surveyofslidingtables.html 

   I have the dewalt version and very happy with it after I added the delta fence from their sliding sled kit. The dewalt version has an osbourne style of fence which I found to be to small for cabinet sides etc.

1. 
   Lataxe | Feb 27, 2006 11:31pm | #5

   The article referred to is an excellent and comprehensive text.

   It reminded me of a couple of issues I have with my sliding table saw (a Sheppach, if you have ever come across one).  The issue is common to this saw type, in a greater or lesser degree.

   If you want to cut long, heavy planks or panels, your sliding table and its rails should either be made of very robust materials or you should have one with some form of outrigger support. (The Hamer in the article is one example).  In theory my cross cut fence is long enough to allow me to cut 1600mm (just over 5 feet) to the left of the blade; but if the work piece is very heavy and much longer on the left than the right of the blade, this can cause some tilting up (on the right - ie down on the left) of the workpiece and the table itself.  It's only a degree or less but not something you want.

   I hasten to add that there is no problem with anything other than very heavy plywood sheets (such as 1 inch birchply) or items such as very long 2 x 8 inch-section hardwood planks.

   As the article says, initial alignment is critical.  The cross fence has to be at 90 degrees to the blade and the scale for angles other than 90 degrees should be accurate.  The former is generally possible but most of the degree scales I've seen are not well enough etched to give confidence in their accuracy.  Usually, though, there are stops that allow you to very accurately set, say, 45 degrees on the cross cut fence.  But I would use an accurate protractor or do a test cut for other angles.

   It is crucial also to ensure the table travels exactly parallel to the blade.  Setting the fence accurately to 90 degrees to the blade is not enough by itself.  Parallel table travel is most critical if you want to cut large panels and sheet goods acurately, because those cuts are long and will amplify any non-parallel table travel.

   One of the great joys of a sliding table is the ability to cut those large panels into parts that are perfectly square and identical every time.  If you can, get a sliding table with rails that allow you to cut at least 4 feet in front of the blade.  Assuming your saw is in a shed (shop) big enough, you can then dimension down from whole plywood sheets.

   One last thing.  When you first set up your new cross cut saw, be careful not to saw off the end of your cross cut fence.  You have to set the cross cut fence so that its right hand end just clears the blade when its at 90 degrees.  I know three people who have accidently either shortened their nice new fence or put an ugly cut part way through the right hand end of it.  It's easy done.  Doh!