Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Aug 20, 2004 08:41am | #1

   I'm not exactly what you want to do.  Do you have pieces of veneer and pieces of veneer-thickness banding which you want to assemble into a pattern and then glue to a substrate?  If so, one answer is veneer tape.   I use it on the show face of the veneer to tie pieces of veneer together, then glue the composite to the substrate.   Remove the tape with a scraper or a sander.   You can buy veneer tape at most any place which sells veneer, and in many catalogs like Rockler. 

1. 
   Telemike | Aug 21, 2004 08:16am | #2

   Jamie, do you also tape the veneer to the substrate? My problem is that the assembled veneer slips around on the layer of glue between the veneer and the substrate. I've stapled it and brad nailed it, but I've also then cut off the portion with the staple or nail in it. I can't do that here.

1. 
   migraine | Aug 22, 2004 07:39am | #4

   Try using a clear vacuum bag and draw a reference line arount the panel/veneer place the face of the veneer down on the lower caul.  when you start getting to close to the vacuum level you need, briefly shut off the vacuum draw-down and re-arrainge the veneer to line up with the panel. Do not release the vacuum already in the bag, unless you need to, but then only as little as needed to slide the parts around on the veneer.  When you have it where you want it, continue to draw down the vacuum to the desired level.

   I have also found that a little piece of tape at the top and bottom of the veneer/panel usually keeps the veneer right where I want it.

2. 
   mike4244 | Aug 21, 2004 05:00pm | #3

   Hot hide glue applied and left to cool a bit. Place veneer where you want it and iron it down. I use a heat gun and veneer roller most of the time, instead of an iron.

   mike

3. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Aug 23, 2004 01:33am | #5

   Sand or coarse pumice.  Not much, just a couple grains is all you need.  Embeds in the wood and leaves no visible bumps or anything.  Apply glue.  Half a shake of pumice from the salt shaker.  No slips. 

4. 
   joinerswork | Aug 23, 2004 05:13am | #6

   telemiketoo,

   I usually tape things down/together with masking tape.  I cut the veneer sheet to have 1/8 to 1/4" overlap over the substrate, make the caul or overlay same size as the veneer.  I tape the veneer in place, then tape the caul.  Wrap the tape over the edge, and around the underside.  I'll tape a couple places, maybe three, on each side.

   If clamp pressure makes the tape hard to remove, a little lacquer thinner will dissolve the adhesive.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   rckendall | Aug 25, 2004 05:30am | #7

   Sorry I picked this up a little late but coming to similar situation soon. I'll be laminating and applying veneers to inside and outside of a domed blanket chest top.

   I have vacuum bagging experience from boat building and a couple with veneer and press, but I was not planning on using a caul over the top on this set up, only a piece of sail clothe and some batting to help dispense the air. Do I need the caul on top?

   Also am pondering the task of getting the initial curve in all these pieces and again, holding them all in place. Any tips will be appreciated.

   Thanks,

   Richard

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Aug 25, 2004 06:02am | #8

   I've occasionally vacuum-veneered without a caul.   If your veneer is nice and straight-grained, you may get away with it.   If it is curly, there's no hope.   Unless you like risky glue-ups, a caul is a good thing.   You don't have to build a rigid caul which matches the curve of the box.  Instead, use a caul which can bend to shape.   Formica would work well.  It is thin enough to bend, but thick enough to spread the pressure, and conventional wood glues don't stick to the it (well, the front face).   

   Another approach is to do your veneering on a piece of 1/8" plywood.  Then you get to remove the veneer tape and do almost all your sanding while the plywood+veneer is lying flat on the workbench -- which is good.   Then glue it on to the curved surface.  The plywood will act as its own caul.

1. 
   rckendall | Aug 26, 2004 02:39am | #9

   Jamie,

   Thanks for the help. I think I will laminate up a couple layers of doorskin as a caul and to test my proceedure as a whole. I want to do all final shaping and sanding after it is all in place. I may try to get a contrasting wood to border the veneer.

   Thanks again,

   Richard