I’m a big fan of David Marks and his show Wood Works on DIY. He often refers to a “slow setting plastic resin” glue when doing extensive glue-ups. But when I ask the people at Rockler or Woodcraft, they don’t have any idea of what it is. I have use the Tightbond “slower” setting glue but it’s white or yellow where as this stuff David Marks uses looks more like polyurethane glue. But I’m pretty sure it’s not that either. Anyone know what this stuff is and if so, where to get it?
Thanks,
Kurt
Replies
On his website he says it's DAP Weldwood.
Note the high minimum temperature for this glue (70 degrees F). Glue failures have been reported when attempts were made to cure it in environments where nighttime temperatures dropped below this.
I have used that glue at temperatures much less then 70 degrees. I just found it takes much longer to cure.
This glue has a few different names and is not all that common outside pro shops. Urea resin, plastic resin, Scotch glue are common names. It's a brown powder you mix with water. It has to be reasonably fresh, well mixed and used at room temperature unless you use RF (Radio Frequency) curing. Production shops use RF which sends a current of high frequency electricity through the glue, curing it in a few seconds. There are many glues that can do the same thing that UR does without the urea formaldehyde. It was a common glue for making plywood but because of the off gassing, it isn't used as frequently anymore.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I took a bentwood lamination course with David recently and we used a Urea/formaldehyde plastic resin glue. It is a two component glue called "URAC Resin Adhesive 185" by the Nelson Paint Co. and available through Woodcraft. It is dark is color and best used with hidden joints or dark woods
I envy the fact that you got to take a class with David Marks. Is this something he does often and if so, what are my chances of getting in on one?Anyway, I've asked the people at my local Woodcraft (Indianapolis) many times but they don't seem to know anything about it. I did ask for it by saying slow setting plastic resin glue. Maybe I ought to use the correct name which you gave me.Is this the same stuff the others were talking about with a relatively high temp use? If so, I guess I'll have to wait for the weather to warm up before trying it out. I'll check out the manufacturer's web site.I'd love to hear your experience with it as bent lamination is one of the main things I'd like to try with it.Thanks for the info and I look forward to hearing more about it from you.Kurt
I've not taken a Marks class, but it sounds interesting. I do like his work. Here is information about his classes...My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
David Marks , as well as other nationaly/world renowned master woodworkers, teaches at Marc Adams School of Woodworking outside Franklin, IN. marcadams.com.
Kurt,
On David's classes, I found this one through my local (5 hour drive and worth every minute) Woodcraft store where the class was held. Enjoyable and informative. Bentwood lamination really opens up many design possibilities and the strength of the glue-up is really impressive. In this class David showed us how to set up the bandsaw and cut the veneers. He really had some great tips. I strongly suggest that if you can find a class anywhere he's doing on something you're really interested in to go for it. It will be worth the effort.
On the glue, I found out that the local Woodcraft store carried it in their inventory but did not get it from Woodcraft Central. It is temp sensitive and the instructions say if it is below 65 degrees to not even try it.
Well, it's 72 degrees and I'm headed to the shop to glue something up.
Thanks so much for the info although you can keep the fact that it's 72 degrees to yourself (j.k.). Here in Indiana it's about 50 if we're lucky but it won't be long before temps are above the 70 mark. I checked out David's web site and am seriously considering taking a class. Even if that means heading to California. Is he really as patient and nice a guy as he seems on his show? The Marc Adams school is just about an hour south of me. I knew it was there but didn't realize what kind of reputation it had. The fact that David Marks teaches there periodically says a lot in my mind. There is also a Woodcraft about ten minutes from my house so I'm really lucky there and I'll be keeping an eye out for him there.Bent lamination is definately something I've wanted to try and is a big reason for my original message. Thank God it's sping and the weather will permit some experimenting soon. I'll head down to the Woodcraft and enquire about the glue.Thanks again,
Kurt
Yes, he is every bit as patient and nice as he seems on TV. I enjoyed the personal interaction that the course offered every bit as much as the woodworking knowledge gained.
Pro-Glue, Unibond 800, and Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue are perhaps the most common brands of urea resin glue. The latter is mixed with water, and has a shelf life in the sense that over time the powder can absorb moisture from the air. Keep tightly sealed and try to purchase from a supplier with a decent inventory turnover rate.
Pro-Glue and Unibond are two part UR glues, the catalyst is a powder to be added to the liquid resin, and the powders are available in light, medium and dark versions. Additionally some dyes can be used to add color to the glue. The two part UR glues also have a shelf life in that the liquid resin eventually thickens. The shelf life of the two part UR glues can be extended by storing the liquid resin in a fridge (but not in the same fridge as food).
Have never used Weldwood so don't know if one can adjust the curing rate. Unibond's curing rate can be increased (within limits) by adding more catalyst. Pro-Glue is a reverse catalyst, so its curing rate can be slowed (within limits) by adding more catalyst.
In general the two part UR glues should not be used below 65 degrees F.
Unibond available from http://www.vacupress.com and others. Use Google or similar to find suppliers of Pro-Bond.
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