Replies

1. 
   BruceS | Jun 14, 2010 09:49am | #1

   Router table

   That Kreg router table is not a bad little unit for use with a 1 3/4 hp sized router.  But Personally, I  built my own router table and it measures 3'deep x 4'wide.  Why so big?  Well I placed the router insert in the same relative position as a "normal" table but built my fence so that it can be reversable.  That way when I run extremely large raised panels, I can reverse the fence and have plenty of support surface.  The top is two layers of 3/4" mdf laminated top & bottom with wood grain formica, seal coated the edges with many coats of shelac and then edge banded with walnut.

   IMHO, you can easily build your own for under the cost of the small guy, and have a lot more to work with.

   And go for a 3 hp variable speed or better router with 1/4 & 1/2" collets.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 14, 2010 12:35pm | #2

   And go for a 3 hp variable speed or better router with 1/4 & 1/2" collets.... Not that you are wrong!

   I am a Router 'nut'.. I love that tool!

   I for one, would stick with a good quality 1 1/2 router for starters. A big router is 'nice' in a table but I would think it is ideal for hand held routing if you are first learning to use one. I have one BIG router and several of the 1 1/2 hp.. I have never found any wood/project where my 'little' routers would not do the job I had in mind.... My little Porter cable's can spin a 2 1/2 inch Lock Miter bit well enough to do the job. NO.. I never expect ANY router to hog off everything in one pass.

   I can (almost) purchase two little routers for about price of one big router. I am NOT saying there is anything wrong with a 'big boy router' unless you are doing timber framing. It is 'overkill' for common woodworking tasks.

   Just my opinion.. Yes, I am opinionated... Then again, I always take shallow cuts, even with my 'Big Boy' router. I have never worked on a project that I really needed my 3 hp router to do the job at hand.

   As for a router table.. Your router bolted to a slab of 3/4 inch MDF on saw horses WILL work fine if it is screwed down to the 'horses'.. Not ideal but I use one often for outside work. AND you will need a true 90 degree fence that can be clamped down onto the MDF...

   I would suggest that a new router user learn the proper direction to feed the bit into the wood without 'thinking' about it... Routers make very good rocket launchers! Once you have that in mind.. Get a BIG router!

   The original poster said.. My progression in this hobby has been much slower than I first thought it would be.

   I'd say, I have been working wood and metal for many years..

   I would have to say... My progression in this hobby has been much slower than I first thought it would be.

2. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 14, 2010 01:19pm | #3

   options

   Another roption is to buy a pre-made top and fence, and clamp it in a large B&D WorkMate. That's how I'm presently set up for use with an old 2¼ hp Rockwell router. The WorkMate is weighted down fr improved overall stability, which helps a lot. Vibration can be an issue with the smaller bench-top models.

   This is the top I have:

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21291

   But, be aware that router tables are addictive. If you start with a 1¾ or 2¼ hp router, you're likely to upgrade to a 3¼ variable speed in the future, probably with a router lift. I'm presently building a new router table top to use the Bench Dog lift with a PC 7518 router.

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19517

   What I'd really like is the Bench Dog cast iron top and cabinet, but I'm compromising for budgetary reasons. ;-)

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21297

3. 
   bduffin104 | Jun 15, 2010 01:15am | #4

   Waste of money

   I looked at the link to the router table. IMHO that would be a waste of money.

   Router tables are simple to build. It's just a box with a hole for the router bit to stick through and something to clamp a fence to.

   Zoom in on mine to the left of the lathe. Made from scap plywood and mdf mounted to an old saw base. Cost: just a few screws.

   Think cheap, Bret

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 15, 2010 11:32am | #5

   thinking cheap

   My first router "table" was an old carving board (laminated butcher-block style, sized for carving large turkeys), flipped over and inlet to about a thickness of ½" where the router mounted. The fence was a jointed 2x4, C-clamped at the edges of the carving, er, I mean routing board. Then, I C-clamped the whole thing to a large B&D WorkMate. It worked OK, but didn't provide much precision.

   Since the carving board was intended for birds, I suppose it would be the cheep-cheep (or, gobble-gobble) solution.  ;-)

   Ultimately, I think the design sophistication required depends on how the individual is using the router table.

1. 
   bduffin104 | Jun 24, 2010 03:05am | #9

   Ralph,

   My first router table was clamping my router upside down to the edge of my saw table.

   I really don't use  the router table a whole lot. Even though it's "cheep", I have fashioned s somewhat sophisticated sliding table with a reversible angled fence and by switching between a straight cutter and a dovetail bit I can make some very nice "hand cut" dovetails.

   I prefer a small shaper for edge detailing.

   Bret

4. 
   DonStephan | Jun 18, 2010 08:42pm | #6

   One point you might want to consider is capture of routed waste.  I haven't had the opportunity to switch to routers with built in dust collection ports, so I don't know if they would work mounted to the underside of a slab.  Without some means of pretty effective  dust collecton, every surface in your garage will have a layer of fine dust after using the router.  Many years ago I built the first router table constructed on New Yankee Workshop, and still use it.  The router is in an enclosed area, and a shop vac port in the back pulls waste through the fence and also down past the router, capturing most of the waste.  Using my older routers freehand, however, dust and chips go everywhere.

1. 
   JDBraddy | Jun 22, 2010 04:52am | #7

   Am already there..... I've been cutting a bit of MDF making jigs and accessories, and it looks like it snowed in my garage already. I made a router jig like the one detailed it this tip, https://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=3064

   and used it to make an accessory table for my Drill press, using the plans detailed in this article; https://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011182060.pdf

   I built the workbench detailed in the season two of Getting Started in Woodworking, and as suggested, made it the right height to use as an outfeed table for my new tablesaw, and space is at a premium in my garage (See images below), so I'm considering and looking at stow and go setups like the one detailed in this article. https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/2057/free-plan-and-video-stow-and-go-router-table

   Right now I have an 18 year old Black and Decker fixed base router that will only take 1/4in bits, Eventually I plan to upgrade, but am limited on funds, and need other stuff right now, like dust collection. I looked at dedicated dust collectors, and shop vac's. Eventually I figure I'll end up with both, but figured I'd start with a shop vac first. Am at a loss wich one to get though, too many to choose from. The back of the Bosch 4100 has a 2.25" port.

   
1. 
   jonnieboy | Jul 11, 2010 02:13am | #11

   Shop Vac

   If you do go with the shop vac first, I've had really good luck with the cyclone bucket. It's a pretty cool set-up. 

   I've checked the shop vac filter a couple times since I hooked up the bucket, but I haven't had to clean it once. I'm sure I will sooner or later, but every time I don't have to it's great.

   Also, note that the bucket system takes some space for the hose, bucket etc., so there are trade-offs involved.   

   --jonnieboy

   View Image

2. 
   reeltime1 | Jul 13, 2010 02:43am | #12

   Same Setup

   I have the same table saw.  I bought the Rockler dust collector when it went on sale, and bought a step down ring and a hose clamp to fit.  The Rockler dust collector is good, but it's not for sucking up plane shavings.  There's a metal grid over the intake to prevent large objects from clogging the fan, but the grid grabs plane shavings and clogs up.   But for the table saw, band saw and router, it's a great collector.  

   What I've found when routing MDF is the router stalls from the fine MDF dust, requiring me to blow it out after using it.  

   My only complaint with the table saw is its height.  it's too tall.  Otherwise it's shown plenty of power, I've used it with a dado stack, and I built an auxiliary fence for cutting rabbets with the dado stack.  

5. 
   aaronpetersen | Jun 23, 2010 04:07pm | #8

   You are on your way!

   JD,

   Looks like you've got a great start. Just remember that the hobby isn't about building the best shop (although some seem to make it this) - it's about making some furniture and having fun. Add things to your shop as you go along and figure out what you really need. More often than not, your needs change and you find a way to scavenge or build your own. 

   Routers - I've had a bosch 1617evs kit for years and love it. As a plunge/fixed base combo it can do anything I've ever come across. I believe I bought mine reconditioned which will save you some money. As time goes on you'll probably find your self adding other routers to save time, but that kit will still serve you well. I've added another plunge, a laminate trimmer, and another fixed base for the bosch that stays in the table full-time. For tables, definitely build your own. You don't need one of those fancy lifts to do good work. Some of the best out there still just have theirs screwed to the bottom of a piece of plywood. All you need is a table that is stout and doesn't flex too much. Go ahead, build a base or just clamp it to sawhorses. What's important is that it's stable. Mine just gets clamped to saw horses and then hangs on the wall when not in use. I have a simple woodcraft phenolic plate in mine which is nice, but not totally necessary. 

   Dust collection - I started with a shop vac and wasn't very happy. The filter will plug just about immediately. Save the money and buy a dust collector and a broom/dust pan. If you keep your eyes on Craigslist and the classified boards at local stores you'll eventually find a used one for a good price. I found a brand new 1.5hp delta on craigslist for $175, but I've seen others for less. The 1.5hp that I have services my planer, ts, bandsaw, jointer, and drum sander by moving the hose around. It's not the most efficient setup, but that size is large enough to handle all of those machines individually. 

   Cost savings - as I mentioned, find used stuff on craigslist, buy reconditioned, or make your own (you get the added benefit of developing skills while saving money). I've also had good luck with Grizzly tools and they're usually much cheaper than other brands. 

   Most importantly, have some fun. Don't sweat not having the latest and greatest. You don't need 99% of what is available in the woodworking stores. Some of it is real fun to have, but not needed. Think about the generations of woodworkers before us who were able to build incredible pieces with a set of hand tools that would fit in a travelling chest. That should tell you what you need. 

   Cheers, 

   Aaron

6. 
   poplarguy | Jul 06, 2010 03:34pm | #10

   My Experience

   When I was starting only a few years ago I figured I needed a good router table and spent a lot for a Jessem table and lift.  Then I watched a bunch of videos of top craftsmen who simply screwed a router to the underside of some plywood and either clamped it to their tablesaw or set it over a steel drum (which also served as a trash can.)  In hindsight, the lift has definitely been useful, but I might have gone with a different system (or built my own) based on how my (tiny) shop is arranged.  Unless you are about to start a project that requires a solid router table, you may want to construct a simple table with some plywood or melamine and then wait and see how your woodworking (and shop layout) evolves.   Then you can buy the deluxe version and feel good about it.  

   This advice is pretty much the same as I got and ignored, since I thought I needed a Norm-like shop to be in contention, and yet some of the best craftsmen produce amazing things with a fraction of the equipment I now have (see Rob Millard's website). 

   However, In the meantime, spend the cash on good DC and an air filter, and get a good respirator that's comfortable.  You can always get additional tools but lungs are harder to replace - especially if you are going to be working with MDF for your shop.  

   Simon