I’m in the process of machining 2X2 squares (64 of them) of 3/4″ plywood to use as wooden floor tiles…screwed and plugged directly onto the subfloor. I would like to chamfer the edges just a bit so that any slight cutting inaccuracies won’t show, and the edges will be relieved. Staggerd joints. Kind of like a “grout line”. The oak veneer is a little less than 1/8 ” thick.
Seems to me the best way to do this might be with a jointer set for a thin cut with fence at 45 degrees. This will work well with the grain, but I’m wondering if there will be tear-out on the cross-grain sides. The champfer will not go into the second ply….just the top layer of oak veneer.
I’d try it on a scrap piece, but I don’t own a jointer, don’t want to carry 64 squares around to FIL’s basement workshop, and want to buy a planer anyway for future use, but I’d just as soon wait ’till I do more research on planers or for the ship time from Yorkcraft or Sunhill, and this project needs to get done NOW. I’ve used jointers alot, but all on solid wood…never plywood.
Anyone planed plywood edges? Suggestions for alternate methods?
TIA for any advice.
Replies
Hello John, I would like to have a jointer too, just can't justify it right now. I think the jointer approach would work, but just using a chamfer bit with a bearing in a router would work fine, it might even be more consistant. If you have a router table it would take no time to run these, with the bearing on the bit you wouldn't even need a fence, just a pin to start against.
Mike
I've considered that...too bad there's only one Father's day and I just bought an RO sander, drill press, and $5000 heated shop floor (see "garage slab quote" thread in "Breaktime") I suppose that when push comes to shove, a router/table will get much more use than a jointer. Although an old friend just offered me his 6 yo Craftsman 6" jointer for $125. I'll take a look at it tonite. Maybe you could still get good power tools at Sears 5-6 years ago. My 25 YO Craftsman 10" table saw is still going strong. Also could borrow a router/table from another wood worker friend.
The jointer is not a good idea for two reasons, there will be significant tear out on the cross grain sides and the glues in the plywood will instantly dull the steel knives in the jointer. Doing the job with a carbide router bit is the route to go, but you will still have at least some tear out on the cross grain edges that will need to be cleaned up by sanding.
It is very unlikely that the oak veneer on your plywood is 1/8 in. thick, the veneer is probably just a few thousandths thick and almost invisible on edge, the 1/8 in. thick layer you are seeing is probably the second layer of the plywood. The veneer layer is so thin that it will have to be protected by a good hard floor finish to prevent very rapid wear through.
John W.
Well, I'll take a MUCH closer look at the plywood. That explains a bit of tear-out I've already seen. Maybe I should just sand the chamfer and be done with it.
Yes, shellac sealer already on, drill/countersink holes, install and plug, then 2 coats of Varathane floor poly. This is a cheap but nice looking floor for a guest bedroom.
Thanks, this BB saves me lots of trial and error.
If the veneer is paper thin as mentioned, you're going to cut into the softer substrate when you sand the chamfer. When you apply the Varathane, the edge is likely to darken more than the oak and leave a thin line around each tile. This may look ok but I'd suggest testing a piece with the Varathane before chamfering all the tiles. Just a thought.
Ian
Testing a piece with Mineral Spirits would accomplish the same thing and not leave any residue behind.
Regards,
Kevin
I would sand the chamfer.
If you have a belt/disk sander you could set up a guide fence or you can set up your table saw with a sanding disk and tilt it at 45 degrees and run the tiles through like you were ripping them.
Good luck,
Len
Best way I can think of to do this would be to forget the power tools.... use a well tuned low angle block plane instead....
Start with the cross grain cuts first, working from the outside into the centre...
I'll take ages... but the tear out should be minimal...
Good Luck...
johnnyd,
I think your gonna have more trouble with this idea than it's worth. The thin veneer will not hold up and the beveled edge is going to be a big dirt catcher. Lastly, I pay plenty for good oak ply...maybe $3.00 a square foot...maybe I could get solid wood flooring for that price or close to it..
Perhaps you have thought of all these things...
I've done exactly the same thing before, except my 2x2 blocks were 2" x 2" for a nephew's block set.
Router table, fence, with a NEW chamfer bit. Use the fence to expose the section of blade you need, not the bearing. Route no deeper than the veneer thickness if possible. Route the end grain first, and if there is any tearout at the end it will be cleaned up when you do the adjacent side. The end grain may need a little sanding to smooth out the stressed fibers. Keep the table clear of wood chips. Keep consistent down pressure as the wood crosses the bit. Keep it tight against the fence. If you notice an imperfect edge, simply run it across the table again.
You'll not get as much accuracy with any strategy for sanding the chamfers.
4DThinker
Actually, I got the plywood for $37 a sheet....$1.15/sq ft. Some is VERY nice, the more mediocre looking squares will be relegated to under the bed. This will be a guest bedroom, so not subject to alot of wear. The grooves don't bother me, not much worse than grout lines in conventional tile.
Got this idea from a house featured in the "More Small Houses" book.
I like the sanding disc on table saw or belt sander with jig the best. I'll try some tonite and let you know how they turn out.
Last night I cut a bunch and started the layout. Looks neat in a whimsical, Old Navy-Gap- Noodle Factory sort of way.
Thanks for all the response.
Got a sanding disc yesterday, set it at 45 degrees in the table saw, tweaked the fence until I got a ~1/8" champfer, ran all 64 (256 sides) through in about 2 hours.
Only problem was that I had to run them upside down, so I had to gauge each cut by EAR, rather than by eye. Listen for the right tone consistently during each cut. The few that got fat or thin will be trimmed off at the walls.
trying to attach a .jpg of the finished floor, think I need to get to the next step before I post
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