Replies

1. 
   snapperhead | Mar 13, 2013 01:50pm | #1

   Picture

   Attached picture.  

   
2. 
   [email protected] | Mar 13, 2013 04:00pm | #2

   small Japenese style saw

   Hi Snapperhead - Have you tried a small Japanese style pull saw. I bought one at HD a few years ago and when I'm in a bind, I use it. If you've never used a Japenese saw, you'll be surprised as to how accurate they can be. The're flimsy but because they cut on the accurasy is surprising.

   Nice looking highboy. I'm sure your daughter will love it. I'm building a small chest for a grand daughter.

3. 
   Metod | Mar 14, 2013 07:23am | #3

   Small Dovetail Saw

   You might want to try a Zona saw. For a few dollars (4, 5?) it is not a big risk. 

   Best wishes,

   Metod

4. 
   roc | Mar 14, 2013 10:31pm | #4

   That is an inspiring dresser you are making !

   PS: Well heck I am having a time of showing you what I mean so I am adding photos of saws and box with description.  See my photos of the two straight handle LN back saws with the ruler laying on one of them.

   LN does not make this saw any more.  Maybe when the economy gets strong enough they will expand their line to include it again.  It is a very good product.  The handle isn't perfect but used with practice I think you will find it balances well for small cuts.  I find Japanese pull saws wrong for western dovetails though I love these japanese saws ! ! ! ! For what they are designed for they are brillient and so sharp they will slice your fingers up just cleaning saw dust out of the teeth.

   THE WEST CAN LEARN A THING OR TWO ABOUT WHAT A SHARP SAW IS FROM THE JAPANESE !

   You might find the saw I mention in this thread at a local store or on Ebay.  I think it is worth tracking one or two down.  I have the coarse tooth as well as the regular tooth saws in this style.  It seems Highland Woodworking is out of them; I just looked.

   I think the most important thing in a saw for cutting the really small dovetails is that it is fairly thin and very very sharp.  THEN even if it has coarse, large, teeth (which I prefer) it will be no problem.

   I think most dovetail saws for  carcass work have too many teeth per inch that are too shallow.  I am thinking the saw you have, is it a rip ? . . . is on the order of 15 teeth per inch and that is pretty darn fine.

   If it is a rip I would say sharpen it, even if it is brand new, and use that.  I have tried about all the styles and own them Japanese and all , and I like the one I am posting.  See the thread for particulars.

   http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/joinery/best-saw-dovetails

   
5. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 15, 2013 10:24am | #5

   One word

   Dozuki.

   Two words:  Japan Woodworker

   http://japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?dept_id=12631

6. 
   hammer1 | Mar 18, 2013 10:13am | #6

   I just made this handle to hold a dozuki blade backwards so it has a push stroke rather than a pull.

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 19, 2013 08:45am | #7

   Interesting approach

   Would that make it an Ikuzod saw?  ;-)

7. 
   hammer1 | Mar 19, 2013 11:07pm | #8

   Ha, Ha, Ha!! That's funny, Ralph, I'm gonna use that name.

8. 
   PSeverin | Mar 22, 2013 07:03pm | #9

   You might take a look at Glen-Drake Toolworks.   They have a wonderful saw that is not cheap.  It has no teeth at the beginning and end of the blade and at first you say that's a gimmick but it's a gimmick that works.   The blades can be changed and sent back for sharpening or put in a courser or finer blade.  No one seems to talk much about this saw but he shows up at the Lie Nelsen tool show here.   I bought one and they were as good as he said they'd be.

1. 
   roc | Mar 22, 2013 10:43pm | #10

   Glen-Drake saw : Cooool

   That's brillient!

   i'm impressed.

   here's a link

   I would go right for the coarse teeth right off for most things.

   How's the quality of the sharpening ?

   Do they cut straight in a deeper kerf ?

   Thanks for bring me up to date.