Replies

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Mar 23, 2000 01:39pm | #1

   *
   You might be wondering why there has been no response until now, but in explanation to that, this is a massive subject worthy of a 3000-5000 word article, plus sketches and photographs, and such articles have appeared in several magazines. I recall a fine one by Alan Peters in FW some two or three years back. I can't give you a reference for I don't hang on to old woodworking magazines I'm afraid, but maybe someone else does know. I've never done a search in this site for articles and tips, but you might find something here to help if you do one yourself.

   But to get the ball rolling for you, here goes. Success with traditional drawers running on slips fitting between runners and kickers doesn't start with the drawers; it starts with the cabinet. Various refined strategies exist for building the cabinet, but the simplest one to aim for is to ensure that it-the cabinet, and the runners and kickers are all absolutely square to one another.

   In practice this is nigh impossible, and the next trick is knowing how make the drawers in such a way as to allow for tailoring by hand at the fitting stage for a first rate fit. This requires taking and accurately noting measurements of each drawer opening at the front, back, and both sides. It's possible, for instance, that the width of the opening at the front is a hair narrower than the width at the back, or vice versa, and knowing this helps you make small adjustments in sizing individual drawer parts.

   Be that as it may, here's a strategy to get you going. It's a sort of one size fits all strategy that will give a pretty good fit assuming the cabinet is pretty square.
   * 1. Cut all the backs 0.25- 0.5 mm shorter than width available.
   * 2. Cut all the sides 0.75 wider than the height available. With a hand plane slightly taper each side front to back so that it will slide in about 7/8 of the way comfortably. Note each sides position carefully.
   * 3. Cut the drawer fronts similarly 0.5 mm wider than the height available for the opening. Ensure the bottom edge is square. Make the length 0.75 mm longer than width of the opening. Bevel the top edge, and the two ends towards the inside so that the drawer front will jam into the opening leaving about a 1/4 of the thickness sticking out. The bevel understandably is very slight.
   * 4. Make your drawer box, ensuring squareness and not in winding (very important.)
   * 5. Fit the slips to the inside bottom edge of the sides. A wee tenon worked at the front of the slip that coincides with its groove fits into the groove worked in the drawer front. The slip needs a notch at the back to let the drawer bottom slide in. Fit the drawer bottom and drive screws up through the bottom into the bottom edge of the back. Plane the slips down flush with the bottom edge of the side; just and no more!
   * 6. Now you can shoot the front top edge of the drawer sides and the drawer front with a hand plane to allow the drawer to slide home snugly. Shoot the bevelled ends of the drawer front also to fit.
   * 7. A little candle wax or french chalk on the sliding parts is usually useful.

   Good materials for internal drawer parts, runners and kickers are white oak, maple, and mahogany (for instance.) I'm afraid this is a very foreshortened and somewhat exlusive response to your question, but with luck it will get you going in the right direction. I have also rather assumed a good amount of knowledge on your part. I've already whittered on for far too long anyway!

   If you don't already own a copy, Ernest Joyce, The Technique (US Dictionary) of Furniture making might be a good investment. US ISBN 0 8069 6440 5. UK ISBN 0 7134 0217 2.

1. 
   AD | Jul 01, 2000 06:42pm | #2

   *AN ALTERNATIVE IS ULTRA HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT (UHMW) PLASTIC STRIPS. THEY CAN BE OBTAINED THROUGH THE WOOD WORKER CATALOGS (WOODCRAFT, ETC.). THEY HAVE AN ADHESIVE BACK AND COME IN VARYING THICKNESSES. IF THE THINNEST ID STILL TOO THICK, YOU CAN INSET INTO THE TRACK. I WOULD USE ONE FOR THE TOP AND ONE FOR THE BOTTOM OF THE SLIDE. SET THEM INTO THE CARCASS, NOT THE SLIDE SO THEY WONT' SHOW. HOPE THIS HELPS.

1. 
   josh_obercian | Jul 13, 2000 07:49pm | #3

   *please stop YELLING, AD Thanks

1. 
   Fred_G. | Jul 14, 2000 02:08pm | #4

   *Sgian, I wonder if you would you explain a bit about "slips", please, what, why how etc? I know you've explained before, but I can't view images on this site so I couldn't see your picture. Your message above seems to imply that the slips are fitted to the inside of each side, at the bottom. Is that right?Thanks in advance.

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Jul 14, 2000 03:42pm | #5

   *Fred, Yes. In profile picture a square piece of stock, usually about 18 mm square. Envision the left side of this square profile glued to the bottom inside face of a drawer side as viewed from the back of the drawer box. The bottom face of the slip is flat and slides on the carcase runner (which might be a 'shelf'.) The right face of the slip has a groove about 6-8 mm square approximately centred on the face. The top right edge has a quarter round (typical) moulded. The top face of the slip is flat. The groove is to carry the drawer bottom, and this groove lines up with a matching groove in the drawer front. A wee tenon is cut at the front end of the slip that coincides with the groove, and this slips into the drawer front groove thus ensuring alignment. At the back, the slip is notched on the top face down to just a hair shy of the top of the groove so that the slip fits under the drawer back. The slip for the other side of the drawer box is a mirror image. This is just one pattern, and this pattern causes a step in the level of the drawer bottom at each side. Other patterns and drawer bottom configurations can be made that leave a flat- or near flat, internal drawer bottom surface. I'm surprised you can't open JPG or TIFF images here. A picture makes it much easier to explain. I hope I managed to explain with words for you. It was a bit of a challenge. Sliante.

2. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Jul 14, 2000 03:48pm | #6

   *I've just remembered that I have an image that you might be able to see. If this works, don't bother clicking on the blue link at the end. It should be the same image. b A few minutes later now. It seems to have worked, so it looks like I really didn't need all that earlier verbal spew in the previous post! Sliante.

3. 
   Fred_G | Jul 17, 2000 01:53pm | #7

   *Sgian,Thanks. Your description answers my question nicely. I still can't see your image, though - it takes me to a page that says "No Access".Thanks again.