I’ve been using the 11-ply birch plywood from a home supply store for jigs and other purposes. I’ve been surprised that I can only get a smooth edge (smooth enough for finishing) by extensive sanding. (Neither a jointer nor a sharp router seems to do an adequate job). It’s difficult to keep a perfectly square edge using either a portable belt sander or oscillating sander – or even hand-sanding. What are the best alternatives?
Thanks – DaveO
Replies
I presume you don't want to edge of the actual ply to show, in which case I would suggest edgebanding.
If you don't mind it showing (as you say, for jigs etc.) I would give it a coat of lacquer to stiffen the fuzzy edge to make sanding much easier.
Custom Cabinetry and Furniture
http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com
Think sanding sealer would work as well as lacquer? The stuff I use is water based and dries very quickly. Otherwise, what lacquer would your suggest?
I would imagine it would work as well. be sure to apply it generously as it will soak up in a hurry and you want to saturate the fibers. don't attempt to sand it until it dries completely. the lacquer I use to complete this task is called Intro 60 pre-catalyzed lacquer, dries an about 2 or 3 minutes. it must be sprayed on but I use it for almost all of my finishes. best stuff I know of. I think I pay about $100 Canadian for a 5 gallon drum of it, however it is not available in Canada to the non-professional. may be different laws in the US though
Custom Cabinetry and Furniture
http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com
Look in your mirror and say, "My name is Dave, and I'm a perfectionist." I say this in all sympathy as a fellow sufferer.
Is there a reason, other than perfectionism, why the edges of workshop jigs and fixtures need to be perfectly square and smooth before finishing? For that matter, do all the jigs even need to be finished?
If you're determined to continue in this course, :o) build a fence to attach to your belt sander, to keep it perpendicular to the face of the plywood. Or build a table for it so you can mount it on its side and use it as a stationary machine.
I also have had good results putting a coat of finish on the edge to harden it for sanding.
Actually, putting a coat of finish on might solidify the edge enough that the router would leave a good finish. I would try it with a HSS end mill instead of a carbide router bit and set the router for a real light cut, less than 1/64".
I'm afraid I stand guilty as charged. Actually, in partial defense, I will say that I do not usually want to finish the raw edge of jigs, etc. The piece I was am currently building is a 'semi-permanent' - and fairly complex - bandsaw table. The perfectionist in me said, "I like the pretty pictures showing the exposed. but finished edges in the magazine - and I can do that." Now thanks to you and the others who were kind enough to respond, I know how.
Many thanks - DaveO
I've used plenty of baltic birch plywood before, and the best results from any power tool have been when using a (sharp, new) spiral-cutting straight bit in a router. The angled approach of the blade to the wood seems to shear the endgrain better/smoother than a straight bladed bit. Since layers in plywood alternate, even abrasive approaches have trouble dealing with alternating end and side grain on the same edge. The best manual sanding results I've ever gotten were then clamping the board so the working edge was "up", and teduously working through from coarse to fine sandpaper grits backed by a hardwood block. You can get a nearly mirror sanded surface on hardwood plywood edges, but it's hard work.
4DThinker
Hi 4D - Thanks for the infor on the router bit. I think I'll give that a try. It's really not a crucial matter, but I was surprised when I was unable to get a good edge with a straight router bit, and I thought I would seek some input.
Thanks again - DaveO
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