Replies

1. 
   Handrubbed | Jul 19, 2006 12:53am | #1

   Socket chisel handles are actually a friction fit, so it is important to match the taper of the socket to the taper of the handle as you turn it.   This will involved some trial and error to establish the right profile.  Once you have it,  do what you need to be able to repeat it.  Some people here have said that it works best to rough up the taper with some course sandpaper to get more bite.  On my socket chisels I just rap the side of the handle on the bench to loosen it; and then I can change to a longer paring handle, and back again.

1. 
   mwenz | Jul 19, 2006 03:56am | #2

   I like the handle change out--I never thought to do that!

   To the OP. To turn the handles's tenon fairly accurately, I have robbed some of the children's PlayDough for packing into the blade's mortise. A slight twist to the lump to remove it and then size the tenon from that.

   I just do it for each as it seems most/many of mine were never that evenly tapered inside.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   Patto | Jul 19, 2006 06:40am | #3

   Did one the other day from some comment I cant remember the source for.

   Measure the size at the end, transfer than diameter to about 4mm from the handle part. Take a 8 or 10 mm drill bit and measure the depth of where it contacts the socket. Transfer that length to the handle from where you marked your first diameter. turn a straight taper intersecting the two established diameters (or perhaps a smidge bigger). This approach provides a quick and accurate method of establishing the taper peculiar to that socket.

   David

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 19, 2006 03:10pm | #4

   Patto, and All,

   There is generally enough rust, dust and crud inside the socket, even after you clean it out, to leave a nice dark shadow on the handle, after you sock it (pun) in there and twist it a bit.  Tells you where the high spots are, for a final fit.  It's probably a good idea to turn the shoulder of the taper a s'teenth or so back from the end of the socket, to allow for some settling in, as the wood crushes under use.  Pounding with a mallet will often compress things a little, over time.

   Regards,

   Ray Pine. 

2. 
   Handrubbed | Jul 19, 2006 10:28pm | #5

   Mike:

   I don't want to take credit for that handle changeout idea...it belongs to Mr. Lie-Nielsen.  It definitely works and a nice long handle really helps when paring. 

   By the way, I really enjoyed talking with you on the phone this morning.  I'm excited to get that saw!

   Mike Brady

1. 
   user-162978 | Jul 20, 2006 04:19pm | #8

   Originally my suggestion to Thomas L-N.

   The first prototype was turned by my friend Bob Seymour in Hartland, Devon.

   Glad you enjoy the result!  Greater control of angle.

1. 
   Handrubbed | Jul 20, 2006 07:34pm | #9

   Thank you for that reply, David.  By the way, your books and video instruction have been very helpful me as I go down the handtool path.

2. 
   Grampa Joe | Jul 20, 2006 05:26am | #6

   Thank you very much for the input, it is appreciated and will be used. Grampa Joe

3. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 20, 2006 06:14am | #7

   Grampa Joe, from one grampa to another, I've replaced many socket head chisels. To remove the handle, hold thr chisel by the blade in your left hand then rap the outer socket with a hammer handle.
   A few raps and the handle will fall off.

   If you encounter a good chisel with a broken off hunk of wood imbedded, Drill a 1/4" hole down to the socket center till you strike metal. With the drill still turning (and touching bottom,), rotate the drill in widerand wider circles to enlarge the hole and continue this reaming and the last of the wood 'shell'will pop out.

   To find the proper taper to fit, 'borrow' a few handles to try in the 'test'socket. Steinmetz