Replies

1. 
   Buster2000 | Oct 07, 2009 09:10am | #1

   Glue?

   1/2" is pretty thin, both for mechanical connectors and strength in general. What you might want to do is build build a frame and add some cross members to help support the MDF. Then just fit the MDF into the frame. Does that description make sense?

   Leveling off the frame to the MDF can be done easily with a sander or block plane.

2. 
   ring | Oct 07, 2009 09:49am | #2

   Just glue it on. There's no problem using biscuits on that 1/2" material if you want. I'd use them, just because it prevents fiddling with the clamps to keep everything in place while the glue sets.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

1. 
   studioso | Oct 07, 2009 08:07pm | #3

   Glue?
   Wouldn't wood movement be a problem? The mdf won't expand much, certainly not as much as the frame. Granted, the frame is only 3" wide, but any movement will be mini
   al, but still, if there is no mechanic festener, and since it's a desk that will het used frequently, i'm Fraid the mdf will break off at the edge: don't you think? Is your experience different
   thank you for the advice

1. 
   ring | Oct 07, 2009 08:39pm | #5

   I've done many kilometers of this kind.You'll have no issues at all with the glue up. For all practical purposes the edging will not move along its length and neither will the MDF.Assuming that the MDF is cut clean and straight, the glue joint will be just fine. The major concern, as I said, is just to keep everything aligned while you're setting clamps in different directions.If you're still concerned about strengthening the joint you can add glue blocks underneath. No fasteners, just glue them in place with spring clamps afterwards.David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

1. 
   philip_r | Oct 07, 2009 09:45pm | #6

   David, as always, is absolutely correct.  Wood movement is not your concern.  However, depending on your design, the 1/2" top could cause problems if it is not properly supported...

   I might suggest that you do a little more research about wood movement.  Based on your question to Dave, I do not get the feeling you understand where wood moves and what materials do not.  This is usually a costly lesson.   

1. 
   studioso | Oct 08, 2009 08:42pm | #7

   thanks everyone for the help,
   based on everyone's advice and on the design i've in mind I'll probably reinforce the MDF with cross sections, so those I can screw to the frame, plus I'll glue the panel in place.I hope to post the final piece soon!
   Thanks again

3. 
   davcefai | Oct 07, 2009 08:13pm | #4

   If you have enough MDF have you thought of glueing up a double thickness to make the top?

   Regarding wood movement you are talking about an overlap of 1/2" where the wood meets the MDF. The world is full of 3/4" mdf panels edged in hardwood. I don't think that anybody will opine that this could be a problem.

4. 
   dmdnk | Oct 09, 2009 06:16am | #8

   For this kind of assembly, I like to use a rabbeted, mitered frame with a few support pieces where they are needed.  The rabbet adds strength and aligns the top edge of the frame with the top of the panel during glue up.  The miter hides the rabbet and gives a nice looking corner.  It's easy and very strong.