So I’m getting ready to construct 2 small drawers for a cabinet I’ve been working on. For ease, I’d like to use my Leigh D4 for the dovetails, but I’m having some trouble visualizing the through dovetails in the back. I’d like to use a traditional solid bottom where the back is cut short and the bottom is slid in under the back and attached using a screw in a slot. If you can’t picture it, have a look at Garrett Hack’s article in this month’s issue.
My problem is trying to figure out how to do this joint with a Leigh D4. How do you account for the shorter back? Is this possible? I haven’t given up yet, but I can’t figure out how I would do it. I thought I would throw it out there because someone must have run into this.
Thanks,
Aaron
Replies
spacing out
I think what you'll want to do, Aaron, is design the layout/spacing on the jig such that the cut line on the drawer back falls in the middle of a pin, and then skip that section when cutting the tails on the drawer sides. If you use narrower stock for the drawer back, as opposed to later cutting the full-width piece down to size, do the layout such that there's the half pin at the bottom.
Why not ask your twin brother Norm?
Aaron,
I own a D4 but haven't used it too much. If I recall correctly, to dovetail a drawer, you need to have one face (either inside or outside against the jig) against the jig when routing both ends, so this means rotating the work and referencing both edges off of the stop. I think that the easiest thing to do would be to lay out the spacing so that a pin is centered on the cut line (where you will saw the back shorter). Then go ahead and rout everything as normal and saw the back shorter. As I think this through in my head, I'm realizing that you would then end up with another tail at the bottom/back of the sides. For that, I don't have an answer. It may involve some handwork cutting the last tail.
For the answer, I'd suggest calling Leigh. They are helpful people. Let us know how you make out. I'm curious now.
Think I figured it out
OK, I haven't tried this yet, but it should work.
The problem with having the shorter back end on the bottom with a half pin is it is impossible to cut a half tail on the wider side. What you end up with is a notch on the bottom of the side (tail board) which doesn't look good.
What I think would work is if you end the shorter back with a tail. In other words, you slide the bottom half-pin up and make it a full pin. Then, you get what works out to be a notch on the bottom of the back.
Have a look at the far right diagram in the attached picture. This is a scan from Matthew Teague's article Drawer Building Basics which was published a couple months ago. This is the layout to which I'm referring. I think it would work with a Leigh.
Aaron
That should work.
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