Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 28, 2006 08:25pm | #1

   Mike,

   I hope you get some help here. It might be better to post over in Breaktime though.

   I'm amazed you even were able to get the materials. I've tried before and got completely stonewalled. The requiremnt was to attend a several day workshop to become certified to use the solid materials, glues, machinery, etc.

   I believe the cost was several $ hundred for the experience. The cost was not a deal-breaker, but I just couldn't free up the time.

   Good luck

2. 
   UnclePablo | Jun 28, 2006 11:11pm | #2

   Hey Mike,

   If there is another effective way to seam solid surface I am not aware of it. I wouldn't take the chance using anything but, given the material costs. There is a reason solid surface is not really for do-it-yourselfers. Mostly about cost, but also there are fairly rigid guidelines to follow in regards to manufacturing tops out of the stuff. It is also really unpleasant to work with.( i.e. smells bad, is bad for you, it's very dusty, dulls tools fast, is heavy to move).

   If you can find a kindly shop owner in your area he/she may let you borrow(rent) the gun. You may even be able to check out how they work it.

   Good luck,

   -Paul

3. 
   ring | Jun 29, 2006 10:02am | #3

   Mike,

   I've done 4 jobs with Corian.  Do it exactly the way it's supposed to be done, or don't get into it at all.  There are lots of corners that can be cut in any project, but glueing correctly isn't one of them.

   DR

4. 
   MBaybut | Jun 29, 2006 02:17pm | #4

   Thanks everyone. I think I'll just leave the solid surface for straight runswith no glue ups.
   Mike

5. 
   SteveHahn | Jun 29, 2006 06:49pm | #5

   Mike,

   I did my own solid surface work using solid surface architectural panels to get around the licensing issues. I used weld-on 40(from IPS) and tinted it to match. This is the same stuff used by the SS manufacturers, just not packaged as conveniently. You should be able to get it from any plastic supply company. Its been 5 years and the seems are still invisible. You can get detailed infromation at http://www.ipscorp.com

   Steve

1. 
   MBaybut | Jun 29, 2006 07:15pm | #6

   Thanks Steve,
   I'll call them later. Which adhesive was the one you used?
   Mike

1. 
   SteveHahn | Jun 29, 2006 08:43pm | #7

   Mike,I used weld-on 40.Steve

1. 
   MBaybut | Jun 29, 2006 11:47pm | #8

   Steve,
   Thanks again. I don't want to take up to much of your time but could you briefly run throught the process of fabricating a countertop corner with a built up edge.
   Thanks,
   Mike

1. 
   SteveHahn | Jun 30, 2006 01:05am | #9

   Mike,The material I used was only 1/4" thick, so the methods may vary from your installation. I found this article helpful and you may find it useful as well:http://www.theswancorp.com/fabrication/Cremone.phpGood luck,Steve

2. 
   MBaybut | Jun 30, 2006 03:54am | #10

   steve,
   Thanks, that's going to be very helpful. Last question, how did you tint the adhesive?
   Mike

3. 
   SteveHahn | Jul 01, 2006 12:59am | #12

   Mike,I used powdered pigments, available at most art supplies. You can get almost any color and a little goes a long way. They're also good for tinting epoxy for inlays or hiding thick glue lines. Here's an example:http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/776/Pearl-Ex-Powdered-Pigments.htm

6. 
   migraine | Jun 30, 2006 09:07pm | #11

   Without getting into the pros/cons, it's not really worth the learning curve/tooling cost of trying to do one job.  The nice solid surface stuff runs $20+ sqft.

   Especially since the material cost is so high and you can buy premanufactured granite slabs for $300-$500(26"x8') each and they are not that hard to install and the going rate for an installed price runs around the same for the cost of the slab. 

   As for the adhesive, stick with the color matched adhesives if they are available(as in Corian).  They will help in hiding a "inconspicious" seam.  Mixing colors is a PITA.