I am constructing a dresser with a solid maple top and I would like to edge-band the top on three sides (front and sides) with curly maple. Actually, I would like to band all four sides but I can’t figure out how to acomplish this. The bands will probably be 1″ x 2″. Given that the top will move, I plan on splining and gluing the front band to the top, splining and gluing the miter joints and using a breadboard joint for the ends with 3 or 4 slotted and pegged expansion slots per side. My questions are:
- Should I use a veining bit between the top and the bands to mask the wood movement? If so, what deminsions are recomemnded (style, depth, width)
- Is the propsed construction of the side bands sufficiently keep a tight joint and still permit wood movement? If not, what would you recommend.
- Is there a way to band all four sides?
Thanks for any advise.
Doug
Replies
If you want to band all four sides, you could convert the top to frame-and-panel construction. That is, the frame establishes the overall dimensions, while the panel floats in the middle. You can make the panel top flat, and flush with the frame top. You'll need to leave expansion gaps in the cross-grain direction. For visual consistency, I'd leave similar gaps in the other direction, even though there is no stuctural need for them.
Doug,
No expert here, but if your splining the front band to the top..and the breadboard ends to the front band...and if the breadboard ends can really move..what is to cause seperation? May if you did a bit of a dovetail on both ends of the breadboard and only one peg...that would better insure the allowance of movement?
I am concerned about the cosmetics of the joint. Since the ends have to have play, it seems to me that you need to hold them tight enought to have the appearance of a rigid joint but allow for movement. Will what is essentially a sliding dovetail fill this criteria? I've never created a joint this way and it sounds like a challenge to cut the tails on the vertical. I have, however, a mortising router jig that is easily adaptable to accommodate this cut.
Would you made the bands flush or route in a slight notch to disguise the movement and the inevitable seam that isn't quite right?
Thanks for the suggestion. It sounds like the right approach provided I can get the precision to accomplish both goals. This is a time when you wish you were working with metal and could machine to the require tolerances.
It will be interesting to see what others recommend. Switching from cabinets to furniture has been fun but requires learning whole new skill sets. Thanks again.
Doug
Doug,
Yes, I would like to hear the opinions of others too. I was kinda picturing the mitered ends (breadboard)pieces being splined or double biscuited to the front piece ..like a big 'U'..so if there is movement, the whole U moves. The tongues of the top would be the pins..and tails in the BB ends... Of course, measuring and getting it all to line up correctly...wow
Yeah! I'm feeling a little overwhelmed by it as well but I guess that is the beauty of ww: you try and try until you either get it right or your wife runs off with someone less compulsive. I guess there is a point where the scrap pile exceeds the wood in the project and that should be a clue of some kind.
I was thinking the front piece would not need to be mobile. Am I wrong in this assumption?
Doug
Doug,
The front piece is joining long grain to long grain...same direction, same wood..that should move with the top without a hitch...unless because its curly..squirrely things?
With regard to the wife...hide her sneakers under scrap stock..
Ah, the sneakers: that may be the best suggestion yet.
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