I’m really frustrated with the veneer plywood that I find available locally. The veneer is so, so exceedingly thin as to offer no room for error. I’m not such an accomplished cabinet maker that I don’t have to do any sanding or other work to get edges flush and so forth no matter how hard I try. Even careful use with a cabinet scraper to remove glue squeeze out where exposed ends of the cabinets meet the face frames I’ve managed to go through the veneer.
So I’m at the point where I’m wondering if it would be worth the effort to glue up the doors and drawer fronts out of solid 3/4″ stock. The cabinets are ash plywood veneer and ash solid 3/4″ face frames. I’d get 6 or 8/4 stock and mill the pieces then glue up the panels for doors and drawer fronts.
Drawbacks: there will be end grain showing at tops of doors and ends of drawer fronts. The original design was to have a contrasting wood trim around both, a 1/4″ strip of chechen. This would result in a “breadboard” type of joinery where edge banding is applied to the ends of the door/drawer panels. Based on everything I’ve read in this forum and elsewhere, this is a recipe for disaster.
I think I’ve already answered my own question. I just don’t know where to turn to find some ash veneer that has a finished ply thicker than a piece of 20lb bond paper.
I’m in Mt. Vernon WA, about 60+ miles north of Seattle. The closest source of hardwoods and stuff is Windsor Plywood in Bellingham. The folks there weren’t able to answer this question. What sort of spec do you use to get thicker finished plies? All they carry at Windsor is “shop” grade veneer which isn’t too impressive.
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Crosscut Hardwoods in Seattle has a pretty good selection. About six grades of maple ply, for example. You could call 'em, see if they have what you want. I was in there today and got some really nice (for shop grade) maple ply today for $52/sheet. I could have paid very little more for A1 but it's just for shop stuff...
Thanks for the reply, FatherJohn. Perhaps the real question I should have asked is what or how is plywood graded to indicate the thickness of the face veneer?? Everything available at Windsor seems to be "shop" grade which as I mentioned isn't terribly impressive. You mention 'A1' grade. Does this indicate a heavier face than shop?I realize Crosscut or Edensaw will most likely have a much better selection but I simply loathe making the trip to Seattle anymore.
I don't think the grades actually indicate veneer thickness. My understanding is that, for hardwood, the letter (eg "A" in A1) refers to the presence lack of defects, voids and patches; the number (eg "1" in A1) refers to the species and quality of the second side. Hopefully someone with more knowledge here will kick in more authoritatively.
I simply loathe making the trip to Seattle anymore
I agree with you 100%, and I only have to drive in from Redmond. I'm lucky in that I've got a nice wood store here in Redmond, Redmond Hardwoods. Hmm, I *think* that's the name... I sure know where it is anyway. :)
No, actually I wasn't aware of a hardwood store in Redmond. We lived in Bellevue for clost to 26 years up until about two years ago and I hadn't heard of the Redmond store. Do you know if the carry ash plywood? Do they have a web site? Didn't save any of my Eastside phone books so if you wouldn't mind posting their phone number I'll give them a call. At least it beats a trip into the heart of traffic mania!
I don't recall if they have ash ply. Their address is 14515 NE 91st St, Redmond. Phone number is 425-883-4733. Now that I look it up, their name is actually "Hardwoods Supply Inc."
It's a bit of a pain to find the place. Here are directions from 405.
Take the 85th St (Kirkland) exit, heading East. Through several lights, go past 148th to Willows Road.
Turn LEFT on Willows Road. Through one light, watch for the Subway on the left side of the street.
Turn LEFT on the street Subway faces. Go all the way to the end, where it turns into a round with driveways. With straight ahead at 12 o'clock, turn to 9 o'clock... Hardwoods Supply is in the furthest building, on the far side on your right.
They do carry some 4x8 ply, some 5x5 ply, and both domestic and imported hardwood lumber. Plus turning blanks, a few books etc.
Have fun!
Thanks FJ - I'll call 'em and see if they have what I'm looking for. Always good to know as many sources as possible.
DennisS ,
You may need to purchase thru a supplier that specializes in catering to the furniture and cabinet trades to find the selection you need . In some species there is what is called " thick skinned " veneer , that has the face veneer much much thicker .
You could also create frame and panel finished ends and doors and drawer fronts for that matter to avoid the sand thru problems .
Solid slab doors are made , but offer the least resistance to warping and expansion and contraction . Many cabinet business's put a dis claimer on the doors so as not to be responsible for movement , some even put bats across the back of the door to help keep them flat.
As has been said a door say 20" or so in width can easily move a 1/4" one way or the other . On a split pair that could translate to a 1/2" of problems .
good luck dusty
Thanks for the note, Dusty.I guess one question that has been bugging me ever since I bought that 'thin skinned' veneer is "what's it good for!?" I'm absolutely serious when I say you just can't sand that stuff whatsoever. The veneer on the cherry plywood is so thin I'd be proud to produce hand plane shavings that thin! And I can't see it standing up to much use/abuse in the real world, either.
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