Replies

1. 
   docotter | May 18, 2010 11:18pm | #1

   There was an interesting article in FWW by Mario Rodriguez a couple of years back on the subject of applying edging to plywood. The article covered a variety of methods.

   IMHO, TnG is probably overkill -- the glue is supposed to be stronger than the wood. I think that any solid edge banding (I've done a lot of it recently) is kind of labor intensive for a door compared to a frame and panel construction. I've been doing flat, thick edging for cabinets. I've been milling the edge stock close to the thickness of the ply, ripping strips, glueing and clamping them, then trimming them flush on the router table. I've also recently built a number of doors that are simple rails and stiles with plywood panels where the rails and stiles are joined using dominoes. Plenty strong and very fast. One hundred doors is a lot...

2. 
   KeithNewton | May 18, 2010 11:24pm | #2

   I would not do it that way. The bit cutting into the edge of the plywood will dull along where the glue-lines are. 

   I normally just glue and brad, or use a plate jointer, along with some clamps to put a long solid strip onto the edge of the 11"~ 11.5" wide strips, making them 12", x 8' long. I then trim the edges flush, then cross-cut the other way, then edge the ends. 

   Finally trimming those edges, followed by sanding. 

   I usually make my solid edging about 1/16" wider than the substrate, then flush trim it using a large straight cutter in a table router with a tall fence, and a feather-board feeding in the climb direction.

   I have a sub-fence face set above the table higher than the thickness of the solid edging, and the feather board applying pressure above the edging. 

   Most woodworkers wig about things that most customers don't have a clue about, like whether to use brads on the edges. If you do a good job of filling and finishing, they won't even know they are there. 

3. 
   GaryW | May 19, 2010 01:21am | #3

   I might give it a try, but I wouldn't make the doors until I experimented with mitering the corners of the edgiing and then trimming the door until only a veneer thickness of material showed around the edges of the door.  I think the beauty of edge banding, especially that which doesn't have a cloth of paper backing, is it's near invisibility.  We've had great success with using our gluepot bander to apply shop made edgebanding that has lasted for years.

4. 
   bduffin104 | May 19, 2010 02:29am | #4

   I've successfully done a lot of solid wood edge banding to hardwood plywood by careful glueing and then using blue tape to "clamp" it until the glue sets. No brads needed. If the edge band is thicker that 1/2 to 3/4 inch then you might consider splining it as well.

   In my old shop, when we'd have one of those edge banded jobs, we see who could make the biggest tape ball from untaping the edges. and then of course we would try to clobber each other with them. Edgebanding not being the most exciting process, levity helps. Of course you do not throw tape balls while any power equipment is being operated or during safety inspections.

   Bret