Replies

1. 
   sjeff70 | Oct 25, 2024 09:33pm | #1

   Water

2. 
   bobr2 | Oct 25, 2024 09:46pm | #2

   Water or denatured alcohol will likely work. I have read of aniline dyes that are oil soluble, but the ones I see for woodworking have generally been water or denatured alcohol. The container will usually recommend a good solvent. Personally I go with water as it is cheaper, always available and has worked fine for me.

3. 
   stantheman | Oct 26, 2024 09:36am | #3

   I believe that using water makes the dye more fade resistant. I can't point to a reference but have seen that in print several times.

4. 
   rclark5 | Oct 26, 2024 02:43pm | #4

   I've used water with good results.
   Just a note of caution. Aniline dies are toxic, can cause bladder cancer and issues with oxygenating the blood (methemoglobinemia). So, just handle with care, use a mask and gloves. Having said that, if handled carefully, in my opinion, this gives a much better, clearer finish than stains.

5. 
   Whitnall | Nov 03, 2024 11:36am | #5

   Aniline dye concentrate (like Trans-Tint) can be diluted with either water or alcohol. Yes, water is cheaper, but it also tends to raise the grain, and you can't sand it after dyeing. Alcohol is less lightfast over time (see Trans-Tint information), and it dries quickly so you have to work fast and try to keep a wet edge, but it doesn't raise the grain. I use denatured alcohol, and it's inexpensive. If one coat isn't dark enough for what you want, you can always add additional coats. (If you dilute the concentrate a lot, you may need more than one coat, but you gain more control over the darkness).

   I like to use it with an open-pored wood like white or red oak, and I think the alcohol-based dye has less surface tension and thus penetrates into the pores better as well. In my case, I follow up with a regular pigmented stain to fill the pores anyway, but it is best to have the pores dyed as well.

1. 
   sjeff70 | Nov 03, 2024 12:36pm | #6

   This is one of the problems I have with Cosman and McLaughlin as teachers. One planes and one sands to a finish surface. McLaughlin is far more knowledgeable when it comes to finishing but I hate the fact he has to sand everything.

   If water raises the grain on a planed surface then alcohol would have to be used. Is this correct?

1. 
   Whitnall | Nov 03, 2024 02:07pm | #7

   I'm certainly not the expert, but from what I have read, a planed surface (assuming sharp tools and not a dull blade) will experience less grain raising than a sanded surface because the fibers are sheared rather than abraded, which leaves tiny "fuzzies". However, I would assume that the difference in grain raising depends on the type of wood, the uniformity of grain and grain orientation on the board being sanded or planed (i.e., is it basically parallel with the face being sanded/planed or does the grain enter the face at an angle), and so on.

   You might want to experiment, unless someone here can speak to their experience. I have never used any aniline dye, water or alcohol, on a hand-planed surface that wasn't touched by sandpaper. I stick with the alcohol-based dyes in any event.

2. 
   Rob_Sp | Nov 03, 2024 02:17pm | #8

   You can use water based dye on a sanded surface. You just need to dampen the surface with water to pre-raise the grain or nibs. Let it dry then lightly sand with fine sandpaper. You can then apply your stain.

1. 
   Whitnall | Nov 04, 2024 08:28am | #9

   You might even want to do this twice, since the first time you do it and then sand off the fuzzies, you might create some new ones.