Replies

1. 
   JMartinsky | Jul 10, 2006 07:29am | #1

   Hmm, let' see;

   1) Air

   2) Tar paper

   3) Newspaper

   4) Toilet paper

   :-)

   John

1. 
   Napie | Jul 10, 2006 06:09pm | #8

   That much toilet paper might be more than the drywall.

2. 
   oldusty | Jul 10, 2006 07:39am | #2

   Hey tufenhundel ,

                         An old thrifty minded man I knew many years ago once took 3/4" particle board blows and pulled them in half and put the smooth side out and nailed them onto the walls . I know it sounds strange but it is true . He covered the whole place for like a couple a bucks per sheet .

                      regards                  dusty

3. 
   John_D | Jul 10, 2006 01:35pm | #3

   How about drywall?

   Seriously, at the big box, there are often damaged sheets.  If you're willing to do some taping and repairs, you can often get damaged sheets for just a couple bucks each.  A few extra trips and a little patience, and you can do it right, and cheap.

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
4. 
   JohnWW | Jul 10, 2006 03:29pm | #4

   The major advantage of sheetrock, and the reason why it legally required in anyplace that has building codes, is that it is fireproof.  Without a fireproof inner wall surface a small fire can engulf an entire room, and move into the structure, in a matter of a minute or two. 

   Using plastic sheeting, plywood, foam insulation,, or cardboard to surface a wall is inviting the kind of disaster that killed several dozen people in the Rhode Island night club fire of a few years ago when some foam insulation covering the stage area walls caught fire.  Many of the substitutes you might be considering are more flammable than bare wood framing and will produce highly toxic fumes if they catch fire. 

   Your local building department, fire department, and your insurance company might be very displeased if your money saving walls burned your house down.  I'd be especially concerned that your insurance company might balk at paying for a fire loss if the building clearly violated code.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine 

1. 
   dgreen | Jul 10, 2006 03:34pm | #5

   Amen, it could wind up costing a lot more than the little you saved if you have a fire. Insurance companies are not known for covering all of your losses anyway, better to spend a little more and have them cover 2/3's than save a buck or two and have them tell you it's your fault and pay you nothing.
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

2. 
   highfigh | Jul 10, 2006 05:17pm | #7

   Technically, nothing is fireproof but some things are more fire resistant than others. Drywall resists fire penetration because the gypsum releases moisture when it gets hot and the energy drives the moisture to the surface. Once the drywall is breached, the structure itself is affected and eventually fails. Metal sags before wood burns through because the wood will char and this actually insulates it while the metal (either studs or heavier steel or iron members) sags as it gets hotter unless there is some fire retardant insulation applied directly to it. If the drywall is thick enough, it gets a longer fire rating and if the shop is attached to a dwelling, this is especially important.tufenhundel- Drywall is cheap and easy enough to install. If cost is an issue, the areas that are more important can be covered and the less important parts can be drywalled later.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

5. 
   mudman | Jul 10, 2006 04:55pm | #6

   OSB is less than 2$ more than sheet rock, but John had a good point about fire. I used OSB in areas that will get a lot of abuse or where I will hang stuff.

   I sheathed about 150 linear feet of wall using reject sheet rock from Home Depot and Lowes. You will need patience, but every monday and Friday go to the Big Box stores and dig out all the damaged sheets. They are usually already in a pile made by customers as they look for undamaged sheets. Then find the guy/gal in charge of the Building Materials Dept. The most I payed was 6$ a sheet, most of the time I payed 3 or 4 bucks. Try to get the rejects before the employees cut them up into sticker strips or in thirds for discounted sale. Unfortunately Sheet rock is the cheepest product availible.

   Also keep an eye open for OSB or Sheetrock in the building materials section of your classified ads. There is generally someone unloading damaged or over purchased stock.

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

6. 
   storme | Jul 10, 2006 06:39pm | #9

   don't cut corners on this - the drywall isn't cosmetic, it's a fire-stop.

7. 
   cigarmike | Jul 10, 2006 10:17pm | #10

   If your shop is attached to your home, there is no other way to go but with drywall. The fire retardant properties is why code officials mandate this material.

   However, if this is a detached shop, separated from the home by clear space, then I see no reason not to use sheet goods other than drywall. I lined the interior wall of my shop with 1/4" OSB, screwed to the studs with 1" drywall screws.  The screws have made it easy to get inside the walls a couple of times for electrical upgrades, and to add insulation to parts of the walls as money permits. The screw locations permit me to find a stud whenever I needed to mount something heavy.

   By the way; I am an insurance claims adjuster.

1. 
   tufenhundel | Jul 11, 2006 05:06am | #11

   cigarmike-This is good info...plus coming from an insurance adjuster... My shop is a detached building. I am aware of the reasons for drywall's use. But for a shop, it appears there are good reasons to go with 1/4 OSB. I have to check out the cost for this stuff, as someone on the Breaktime forum also suggested OSB as it is now cheaper than drywall.Thanks.

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Jul 11, 2006 05:51am | #12

   It may cost a bit more than OSB, but pegboard has come in handy in my detached shop. The previous owner put up 1/4 OSB on many walls. Making a repair or change has been a splintery mess. To reduce fire risk about, forbid smoking in your shop.Cadiddlehopper

1. 
   tufenhundel | Jul 11, 2006 02:56pm | #13

   Yeah, thought of pegboard too. It will just come down to what's cheapest at this point. Building a new shop took so much more moolah than we planned...oh yeah...I think the new house that came with it really put a crimp in my shop budget.

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Jul 11, 2006 07:02pm | #14

   Delay installing it for a while as the money comes in. You might have a little bit more for the project that way. I might observe also that panels installed horizontally allow for pegboard above, where it is more useful, with gypsum board or OSB below.I have been trying to figure out how to retrofit a ceiling in part of my barn. It will involve so much time that I think I will forget it. LOL!Cadiddlehopper

2. 
   pcooper | Jul 12, 2006 12:21am | #16

   It is time to slow down and wait on money, you will regret not doing it right some day, sooner than later, and if regret doesn't get you a fire will. Do it right, or don't do it at all. I have tried to skimp and save and it is NOT worth it.

8. 
   ram150 | Jul 11, 2006 11:10pm | #15

   I used hardboard, both solid & perf. so I could hang tools on it.

9. 
   skidkid | Jul 12, 2006 03:09am | #17

   Hello Tuf,

   Start at the beginning; what are the new shop walls constructed of?? concrete, concrete block, wood studs, metal studs.

   Is the shop attached to the house, detached, semi-detached, below the house??

   Is it residential, downtown in a fire district, commercial??

   Personally I would bite the bullet and go with 3/4 inch plywood around the entire perimeter to a height matching the top of the door casings; above that you can skimp; leave blank for a while if you dont need fire separation.

   Until we know the construction and location we are all guessing.

   Pasa bon noche.