Replies

1. 
   Riverprof | Jan 17, 2007 11:06pm | #1

   It depends. Say more.

1. 
   wouldguy | Jan 17, 2007 11:16pm | #2

   I guess  I am wondering about screw holding capabilities for the hinges.  I've heard that MDF doesn't do a great job at it.  Door will be inset to the face frame.

   As far as the face frame goes, if i used MDF would it hold.  It will be 3/4 by 2" so that doesn't leave a lot of area for glue.

1. 
   Riverprof | Jan 17, 2007 11:19pm | #3

   Okay. Generally, if the frame is going to be painted, I use birch or poplar, whichever is cheaper.Rp

2. 
   jackplane | Jan 18, 2007 12:37am | #4

   It's like this:

   mdf holds fasteners like screws just fine on the face, but very poorly on the edge. mdf works fine also for frame stock, but I'd keep the panel at 1/4 th. or less.

   if you must use the edge (leaf hinges, etc.) insert a  V grooved piece of hardwood to provide holding strength.

   The wood police will overlook the word MDF, this time.   heh hehehehee

   Expert since 10 am.

   Edited 1/17/2007 4:39 pm ET by jackplane

3. 
   fussy | Jan 18, 2007 03:09am | #10

   Hey wouldguy,

   What jeffheath and billyb said.  Make your face frames of inexpensive hardwood.  Even pine would work fine.  Then you have no worries over screw holding ability.  Also, make your panels out of 1/4" material to keep the weight down.  Luck.

    

2. 
   colebearanimals | Jan 18, 2007 12:42am | #5

   Hi wouldguy,

        Don't waste your time with a mdf faceframe.  Make it out of an inexpensive hardwood.

                    Paul

3. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 18, 2007 12:45am | #6

   Hey, Shaun

   Nothing wrong with mdf, as long as it's used in the correct way.  Many high end cabinet jobs get veneered over mdf as a substrate.  It's very stable.  Also, for painted surfaces, it's difficult to surpass.  It's easy to work, and comes very flat right out of the gate. 

   When I am building cabinetry that will be painted, I use mdf for raised panels.  However, I make my face frames and door frames out of solid stock, because mdf can and will have a much higher failure rate when it comes to holding strength with fasteners.  It certainly can be done, and is done all the time, but a better choice would be a good paint grade wood, like poplar.  Poplar won't ding up as quickly, and will certainly hold fasteners much better.

   Jeff

1. 
   user-161113 | Jan 18, 2007 01:00am | #7

   Shaun--I second Jeff's reply. It's good advice.

   Billy B.

1. 
   wouldguy | Jan 18, 2007 03:08am | #9

   Thank you all for the advice! I appreciate it.

   Shaun

1. 
   jeanlou | Jan 18, 2007 06:44am | #11

   Wouldguy,

   There are many retail stores using natural lacquer finished MDF as the millwork in their stores, without any solid wood parts. When done properly it looks great and is solid. MDF has a great deal of design potential.

   There has been some good advice given on how to deal with improving the holding power of the screws used to assemble the finished cabinetry and install the hardware. I will add the following: 

   Be it face or edge screwing, always predrill using a bit the diameter of the unthreaded part, the shaft, of the screw and lubricate the screw threads before driving them home. This will insure greatly improved holding power and may be able to eliminate some of the solid wood insertions.   JL

4. 
   Ronaway | Jan 18, 2007 03:02am | #8

   If you mount your hinges in a way that requires screws be driven in to the edge just simply layout where your screws will need to be and drill and glue in dowel stock 1/4 or 3/8, then drill your hinge screw holes into the dowels.

   Ron

5. 
   KD7NKN | Jan 18, 2007 12:08pm | #12

   WouldGuy,

   Not sure how good a tip this is, but any time you use screws with MDF, slightly countersink the BACK of the piece you are attaching.  MDF tends to bulge slightly as the screw enters.  The countersink will keep the two pieces flush.

   Cheers,

   Cliff

1. 
   jeanlou | Jan 19, 2007 05:25am | #13

   Cliff,

   A variation of this is to drill the piece you are screwing to the other so that the screw only bites into the second piece i.e. a 3/16'' lead hole is perfect for a number 8 wood screw...predrill the second piece to allow for the shaft of the screw, and there will be no puckering at all. This is actually the proper way to attach two boards, no matter what the material used. Driving the screw through both boards, as many people do, may seem to be quicker, but it is definitely not better.   JL

   Edited 1/18/2007 9:25 pm ET by jeanlou

1. 
   colebearanimals | Jan 22, 2007 01:11am | #14

   MDF can have it's uses..... just don,t let it get wet.

                                Paul