My shop is the two car garage which is next the the living room. The garage 2×6 walls and ceiling are insulated with 1/2″ drywall. The sounds of the router,planer, jointer all come into the house. The door between the garage and the house is a 6 panel wooden door. My wife likes it quiet in the house and when I use my power tools but it isn’t. I can not add a detachable shop because of the lot size so my best option is making the garage/shop more quiet.
My question is this: How can I add additional sound proofing without making destroying the look of a finished garage/shop?
1) add 1/4″ spacers and add another layer of drywall?
2) add 2″ spacer and add rigid installation and drywall?
3) add another wooden door with trim which seems like the weak point of leakage of sounds?
Replies
Have you looked at acoustic foam? Applied over the dry wall (and inside the door) could attenuate the sound in the house.
Bob
Thank you for your suggestion. No I did not look at this option previously but I will. After reading all of the comments, it sounds like the best option would be to do the following.
1) Install rock wool on existing wall
2) Buid new 2x4 wall and spray cellnlose in 2x4 cells. This will be hard since existing electrical outlets and plumbing faulet need to be extended. The wall will be separated for existing by 1/2"
3) Install additional door with weather stripping.
It will take 4+ inches off your garage, but a secondary wall adjacent to but neither attached to nor touching the existing LR wall will give some quieting. Construction could be 2X4s with drywall on the garage side only. Fiberglass insulation between studs may offer additional high frequency attenuation. Sprayed in cellulose insulation would attenuate all audio frequencies. If you could construct the wall, insulate, then move it into place, it is a far better attenuator than fiberglass. A heavy storm door with double pane glass on the garage side of the entrance door should help also. This ain't much help, but move as many tools as possible to the far wall of the shop.
I once had data as to how much attenuation various construction details would yield, but I doubt that I could find it. As best I can remember, you can expect at least 20 dB from the wall described. I hope that is enough for the LOYL. LOL!!
Cadiddlehopper
USG handbook will give you many,many wall and ceiling systems to meet your needs.
The most effective wall systems for increased sound rating are detached from the main wall between garage and house. The second door is a plus installed in the new wall ( min.space between walls 1'') and you can use polystrene strips or RC-1 channel at ceiling and wall connection and wall to wall. Steel studs, 5/8" fire X rock and 3-1/2'' un-faced insulation, surface mount outlets, min. pentrations to "0" in that wall. You can use window and door weather wrap ( ice and water shield 6''-8" width) double up under wall sill plate, giving you 1/4" between floor and wall. Installing 5/8" type X rock between garage and living space is what the IRC building code is requiring in all new homes.
I hope these suggestion will help.
Paul C
I suspect you'd get the most attenuation with the least increase in wall thickness by just adding RC-1 resilient channel (not the same thing as the hat channel at the BORG) and another layer of rock. The thicker the rock, the better. It may be prudent to first put furring strips vertically where the studs are to get the channel off the existing rock. RC-1 is only 1/2" thick, so you could add as little as 1" of thickness with the wallboard. T think I paid about $1 each for 12' sticks or RC-1 a few years back at a local sheetrock wholesaler.
A new wall with no connection to the existing wall is better, as already stated. You're trying to mechanically isolate the new wall from the existing so the sound doesn't just transfer through the framing. Rock wool insulation is made for sound attenuation, but fiberglass isn't. And as others have said, no penetrations if you can help it. Seal up around the door. You'd be amazed at how much sound comes through a tiny crack.
I haven't seen it suggested yet, but acoustic ceiling tiles don't have much effect in stopping sound from getting through to the next room, in my experience. I have a basement room near my shop that's finished with a suspended tile ceiling. I can clearly hear my kids speaking in normal tones in there when I'm in the room directly above. My office is nearby, with the same flooring above, but with a soundproofed ceiling (RC-1, 5/8" drywall, rockwool insulation), and I can barely hear very load music playing in the office when I'm in the room above. Tiles seem to work well for reducing the gymnasium effect, but not for stopping the sound from passing through to the next room, at least in my experience.
Be seeing you...
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