Space saving option for surfacing rough boards: incorporate use of a handheld power planer?
I currently use handplanes (scrub, jack, and jointer), a flat bench, winding sticks, and a 4-ft straight edge to surface rough boards into 2S lumber. Then I run the boards throgh a thickness planer to finish them to 4S lumber. I’ve used this technique successfully for both wide boards 9″-10″ and long boards (6-feet plus). The technique is slow, however, taking over an hour to surface the face and edge of a 9″ x 6-ft board. So I’m looking for options to speed up the process.
I realize most woodworkers with a dedicated shop have a 6″ or 8″ stationary jointer. While I do have some space in my shop for a jointer, space (and cash) are at a premium and I’d rather avoid the addition of another large stationary machine. Also, I really enjoy using hand planes, which is why I haven’t pursued the sled option for use with my thickness planer. I just don’t like the time required to remove severe cupping or twist on rough boards.
So I’ve been thinking about purchasing a handheld 3 1/4″ or 4″ planer to take down the high spots on rough boards followed by my jack or jointer plane to take out any ridges left by the power planer. I’ve read that both Andy Rae and Toshio Odate use handheld power planers to initiate flattening of very wide boards- so why not use one routinely? Makita, Bosch, and Festool make handheld planers with hookups for dust collection which I would definitely want. On the downside, I’ve read that handheld planers are difficult to control, noisy, and basically introduce more risk (of ruining a board) than help.
What do you all think of using a handheld planer in combination with hand planes in place of a stationary jointer?
– Lyptus
Replies
Buy the jointer
If you're looking to speed up the process, I'd say buy the jointer - 8" or larger, if possible. While I can see a power hand plane having utility for some applications, creating a flat reference surface on a board isn't one of them.
if you would only need to use the machine occasionally for gnarly boards, how about building a jig that allows you to "joint" the face of a board with your thickness planer? Bascially shimming the board in place to create one flat face. Then flip the board without the jig and plane as usual. Of course I use, and am happy to have, a 10" jointer. Just a thought.
I've tried it
I used a bosch 3 1/4 inch planer.
it can work, but there's definitely a learning curve.
practice on junk wood or construction lumber.
Also tried same idea, 3x21 belt sander with an aggresive grit.
Belt sander is more forgiving.
preference- belt sander vs. planer
Having mastered control of the 3 1/4 planer, do you prefer using it over the belt sander with coarse grit? One reason I haven't considered a belt sander is dust. I am guessing that a planer with a vacuum port would produce less dust than a belt sander with a vacuum port, but maybe belt sander dust control has improved a lot over the years. I don't own either tool so I'm only guessing.
- Lyptus
Planer sleds
There are a number of sled ideas out there which permit the surfacing to occur in the planer. I have yet to try one, but others have and are satisfied with the results. An 8" jointer takes up a lot of valuable floor space and hand feeding a 6-8ft plank of anything through can have its physical challenges.
The planer has the feed rollers, takes minimal space, and you can buy a lot of knives for the price of a decent jointer.
Don
Power planes are very useful
Lyptus,
I make extensive use of a power plane for flattening boards prior to sending them through the planer. I wouldn't want to be without one. I am so pleased with the power plane that I have no desire to own a jointer.
I also use them to flatten and thickness boards wider than my surface planer. With even a little care, one can stay within less than 1/16" of the final dimension and finish with hand planes. Having said that for just flattening a board, all that is needed is to remove the cupping and twist to the point where the board won't rock as it is going through the planer
Your example of a 9"x 72" board could easily be flattened in less than 5 minutes.
I have not used a power plane that could be hooked up to a shop vac, but considering the high volume of chips that come out of one, I doubt it would be very effective and would clog often. In fact I can clog my planer when going across the grain.
The belt sander would be a poor choice as it lacks a guiding surface and wouldn't cut nearly as fast as a power plane.
You can view a 2 part video of using the power plane at the following links ( you have to cut and paste these links)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zK0DB63Tg3U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwaZlapWMls
The video shows a much shorter board than what you are talking about, but the procedure would be the same.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederlperiod.com
type of power planer?
What type of power planer (make & model) do you use?
- Lyptus
Hand held power-plane
http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-1806b.html
While I have a large 12" jointer in my shop, I have also owned a Makita 6 1/8" power plane for about 30 years, that I have flattened many large projects with which were too large to lift and feed over the stationary tool.
I also like having it to take out to job-sites when installing. While I have used smaller ones in the 3" size, they are not nearly as easy to use as the larger one. It has a much longer infeed bed that really helps a lot. The front knob makes changing the depth of cut on the fly handy, for removing humps etc.
I even clamp it in my bench vise to use like a small stationary jointer. It cuts great, and is easy to change blades perfectly every time.
If you are already accustom to flattening with hand planes, you won't have any problem learning to use this. One thing that I have started doing differently though, is to work from the top of the bow side instead of the concave side. I first cut across both ends, by going across the grain. Pop a couple of winding sticks on, and sight them for twist.
Then I shoot a straight line between them, on the side nearest me, making sure to start with the outfeed bed indexing off that first end-cut.
Once I have that pass straight, I make my following cuts with the tool held about 45º across the board, so the long outfeed bed rides on that firs straight surface. I can then crank the infeed up to the maximum 2 mm depth, since the indexing is controlled by the outfeed bed.
There will be some steps left in the face from overlapping passes, but that is easy to deal with if the work will go through the planer, because this face will be down, until the other face is clean, then I can flip it over, and make a finishing pass on the first face, leaving it ready for finish sanding.
Back when I bought mine, it cost about $300, which works out to ~ $10 per year so far. Even with the big jointer, which I use a lot, hardly a day passes when I am working, that I don't use it. If this one ever quits, or is stolen, I will have another one one the way here the next day.
If you follow my suggestion, and you get one. I would like to hear back from you after you use it for a couple of days.
Makita 6 1/8" planer
Thanks for the detailed reply. I'll consider the Makita 1806b but currently it sells for about $540. The specs on it say that the planer weighs close to 20 lbs. I can see that having a 20" long base would make it easier to use like a hand jointer plane. Do ever find the weight to be a problem in applications?
- Lyptus
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled