Replies

1. 
   macalex | May 28, 2004 12:22am | #1

   From my experience working with a sawmiller/forester in the UK in the 80s, the only certain way of discovering what's inside a trunk is to open it up!

   You're a lucky fellow - it's a thrilling business.

2. 
   DaveHeinlein | May 28, 2004 02:42am | #2

   Cut it loose from the tree and look at the end of the log. If it has black lines, it has some spalting.

3. 
   forestgirl | May 28, 2004 03:31am | #3

   Dave's right, if you cut through the log, and it's spalted, you'll see very distinct black lines in the butt (oh, I bet that gets censored).  I would suggest, if you see spalting evidence, that you cut a chunk off maybe 18" long and slab it out and see just what the degree of spalting is.  You might decide to let it sit just a little longer, or you'll see that it's "ripe."

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   DavidxDoud | May 28, 2004 04:09am | #4

   ...loose from the tree...cut through the log...

   yes,  but...

   (from my experience)  the log in the picture is in the right attitude to develop spalting without becoming uselessly rotted - resting on its top with the log off the ground - if you cut it loose you expose the end grain and/or lay it on the ground, this changes its relationship to the environment in a way that encourages uneven deterioration - -

   so,  how to get a hint?  cut some of the top and evaluate condition - - we are in the season of fungal growth right now,  if there isn't any punky deterioration evident (from the looks of this log,  the danger is rot up center) you might consider leaving it till cold weather - - conversely,  if signs point to soft wood,  get it cut and drying ASAP - -

   I do agree,  'lucky fellow,  thrilling business'...

   "there's enough for everyone"
5. 
   KeithNewton | May 28, 2004 04:46am | #5

   Hey abenker;

   You didn't say how you want to use this wood, but as a turner and the owner of a sawmill. My advice is to go ahead and saw this log near where the end of a usable log starts, and as stated before, you can tell best by looking at the endgrain. If it is not, or is just barely started, paint the ends, and wait.

   It looks to me like a moist area, and maple rots pretty fast. It can go past where you want it to go before you know it. Timing is very important.

   If you are not after long lengths, a good reciept would be to cut a 4 -5' length, and coat one end, then stand ti on the other. This will stop the end-checks on the top, and will alow it to wick moisture out of the ground. then whenever it is convient to cut the end off to monitor it just tip it over cut a couple of inches off, and either saw it turn it or stand it back up.

   The dark lines are left whenever there is not enough moisture for the rot to advance. That is where it stops, it lays down a line, then the next time it starts, whenever it stops again, it leaves another line. Thus if the conditions are too good, a low decay resistant wood like maple can go from solid to rotten without ever roting. It looks to me like you are in an area where rot would be very favorable. Are those water tupelo, and a lake in the distance? Keith

1. 
   ABenker | May 28, 2004 03:56pm | #6

   This land will be for our home in the near future. I plan on cutting these into 8-10' long slabs 5/4 in thickness for furniture and cabinetry door pannels. Thanks for all of the advice. We close on this land on the 22nd of June and i will be out there with my new Stihl on the 23 checking out these logs a little closer. There are other logs that are laying on the ground that are in a punky condition. I will deal with some of those first if still salvagable. I hope to get quite a bit of clear maple also when i clear for the house and driveway. A lot of the trees are not large in diameter but very tall and very straight.

   Aaron

2. 
   ABenker | May 28, 2004 03:59pm | #7

   Keith,

   This one and several others are sitting in very small seasonaly flooded basins. It is a wet area. I don't know how long it has been down.

6. 
   Chairwright | May 28, 2004 04:22pm | #8

   I purchased 3 large sugar maple logs (about 30"+ in diameter) several years ago.  They were stored up off the ground for 1,2, and 3 years before I sawed each as I needed it.  The one stored 3 years had significant spalting in about 18" from each end.  The middle several feet were clear.  The spalted wood was good for most uses but not for high stress structural purposes like chair legs.  The black lines don't hurt anything but if there is yellow in the wood it is a more advanced decay and shouldn't be used for structural purposes.  From looking at the log in the picture I'll bet it has a lot of spalt and maybe too much because logs in contact with the ground decay a lot faster than those stored above the ground.

1. 
   ABenker | May 28, 2004 10:58pm | #9

   Thanks for the advice this wood would only be decorative.

7. 
   Curtis | May 29, 2004 01:54am | #10

   Hello Aaron

   I suggest cutting the log ASAP, if the log has been down for to long you will be wasting your time, there will be to much rioted to use for anything.

   I have a friend who owns a saw mill. and sells a lot of spalted maple. he cuts the wood first, and then stacks it under a plastic tarp. after spraying a light coat of (I belive water?) and then leaves it alone for a year or two. he gets a nicely spalted wood, with very little riot.

   I remember him saying that maple has all the sugar it needs, just make the right conditions and it will spalt quickly.

   I am working a sugar maple now,that I cut down 4 years ago. after cutting I sealed with a wax emochen and put the logs off the floor to dry.  when I cut them I found a lot of riot and not much good wood. And belive it or not I was hoping to NOT TO HAVE any spalting.  Go figure! ;-)

   Good luck! and I hope you have all the wood you can use.

   C.A.G.

   
   

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   Edited 5/28/2004 7:07 pm ET by curtis