I have a couple 3 inch thick spalted maple slabs I’ve book matched to make a kitchen island counter from. However there’s is a decent amount of punkyness to part of it and I’m not wanting to cast them in resin. I also need to stain them darker My question is would it be best to use a deep penetrating epoxy to stabilize the rotten fibers and then flatten back sand and stain hoping that it will take the color still? Or stain first and then stabilize?
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Replies
I've used RotFix in the past for punky wood.
Would you suggest applying that before staining or after
I do this frequently on turning decayed wood for making decorative bowls. I turn the bowl blanks to one inch thick then dry them for one year and coat/fill with epoxy before final turning. It keeps the wood together and keeps dust and dirty to eventually enter the wood . It won’t take stain so if you have a color in mind, use pigments in the epoxy.
Thanks gulfstar but I need to stain the wood with a specific color. I don’t want to tint the epoxy. I guess I’m gathering I need to get the top close to finished and then stain it. Then put on the penetrating epoxy and once hardened sand. Correct?
Epoxy is to fill voids and consolidate porous areas, it goes on first and gets sanded away leaving holes filled, see it as a filler.
The punky wood is going to absorb a lot more stain than the harder parts, and hence be darker.
The point of using salted wood is the variations in colors and shades. Embrace that. Trying to get the color even is an exercise in frustration.
Gulf will the wood take the stain after it’s been sealed up like that?
Can you post a picture so we see what the wood is like ?
I have had success in small areas with thin cyanoacrylate. Sometimes I thin it more with a little acetone. It penetrates very well, but will not take stain.
I recently flowed it into a check on the end of a piece that had to go into a table top. It flowed well past where I thought the check ended. After clamping tightly and sanding, it wa sinvisible.
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