HI all,
In my new home, (I bought it 2 months ago) there is a magnificent spalted maple kitchen island that is 6 feet by 2′ 8″ (more or less, it has shape from the original tree) by 3.25″ thick. The house is 20 years old. The spalted maple needs attention, it’s split in a few places and is very dry. The former owner treated it with mineral oil twice a year. I was prepared to do same, but thought I’d check in with you experts. For instance: why not use a good polyurethane to seal it up and make it impervious to water damage? My problem is that poly is a bit plasticky and this wood is so gorgeous it seems a shame. I’d like NOT to have a gloss on it, and maybe the mineral oil is the best to use. ?? Also the cracks and a hole should be filled. Should I use regular wood putty? There are two tap holes (from maple sugaring years ago) that have been filled with something that is clear. What would that be? Should I use it?
Thanks guys. I love being able to ask you all this sort of question.
Replies
Your inclination to use poly is a good approach. Mineral oil doesn't afford much protection against water, food stains, etc. You can give it a couple of good coats of poly and then kill the glossy sheen by rubbing it down with 0000 steel wool.
I'm guessing the clear filler you mentioned is probably epoxy, which is a good choice for that sort of thing.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I had heard about killling the sheen with very fine steel wool. Glad to have someone second it. I overdid the poly on a small coffee table so I'm a bit leery of it now. I'll try the steel wool on it first and see what I think Thanks again.
You may end up with a mess if you apply polyurethane over wood soaked with mineral oil. Try a small sample spot first, which you can scrape off later. Sometimes a coat of shellac under the polyurethane will help. Also, if any sort of furniture wax/polish was ever applied to this, you will end up with craters in the polyurethane finish from the silicone in the wax.
As far as getting a good surface without the plastic look, first use a good polyurethane like Varathane Professional or Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane, and use satin. Apply only two heavy coats, and after about 3 weeks drying time you will notice that it appears that the finish looks like a fine oil finish, except that it is water resistant. You will have problems with wear and scratches though. The Varathane has more solids in it than the Minwax, but the minway is easier to use.
Another good thing to use is General Finishes Polyacylic water based topcoat. It is safe, environmentally friendly, dries quickly, and easy to apply. You can brush it on with a foam brush and get excellent results. And, according to the manufacturer, it is safe enough to use on children's toys. I use it a lot! Its a great product. You still have issues with the mineral oil though.
Thanks. I'll try a patch.. I don't think the wood is "soaked" with mineral oil. It feels really dry to me. The house was on the market starting in May - so it's probably been 5-7 months since it was last treated. I plan to sand as well. I got alerted to the need to do this by the black water rings left when someone used it as a drying rack for a pot. Thanks for product suggestions. I know that there are differences in quality. I have a half-pint of General Finishes satin I used in old house before I moved. With luck I'll find it locally. I don't think a cup will be enough for two coats. ? Thanks again.
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