Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 24, 2006 10:25pm | #1

   Hi Steve ,

                     The TS is an accurate and easy way to create a spline joint . I put them just back of center closer to the inside of the face , About a 1/4" deep  or so works good with a spline that measures 1/2" or less .

         After you cut the 22 1/2° angle move the fence away and put the pointed side down against the table and cut the slots .

                        good  luck                   dusty

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 25, 2006 01:50am | #2

   Steve , 

          To answer your e mail , I cut the spline after cutting the angle on the edge of the boards . And leave the blade set at the 22 1/2° with the board in an upright position and the sharp point of the joint down on the saw table move the fence away from the blade enough to get the spline just back of center so as not to weaken the joint .

       I use plywood ripped to 1/8" or the size slot your TS blade makes . Solid wood is weak when used with the grain , on short spline joints like a door frame or such then you can cut some solid wood splines and run the grain across the joint . I try and use a multi ply material such as apple ply .

              The clamp block has an angled notch cut in it to let you get a clamp on it .

                               good luck       dusty

2. 
   JohnH | Jul 25, 2006 02:09am | #3

   Tage Frid's book on Joinery has an excellent description and pictures on how to make this joint and related ones. IMHO it is an indispensible book for any fine woodworker -- novice or intermediate.

1. 
   user-165082 | Jul 25, 2006 03:33am | #4

   Greetings John,

   Thanks for the input on the book. I'll be searching the internet for it. I'm just a beginer learning the tricks of woodworking and again thanks.

   Steve

1. 
   John_D | Jul 25, 2006 09:19pm | #6

   I liked Tage Frid's books 1 and 2 enough to want to get book 3... which AFAIK (and I did look extensively) is available only in a three-volume set -- with books 1 and 2.  So you might want to plump for the three-volume set to start with, so you won't have to dispose of books 1 and 2 like I did. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

3. 
   joinerswork | Jul 25, 2006 07:26pm | #5

   chief,

   I'm assuming you are talking about the joint between the front and side stiles.  A better alternative to mitering and splining this joint is this:

   Leave the front stiles square edged.  This makes gluing up the face frame easier, as a bonus.  

   Rip one edge of the side stiles at 45*(face down on the saw table),  with the height of the saw set at 3/4" (thickness of your stock). Then make another cut (face up) at 90* to the first, creating a step, or ledge, at the back corner.  This will give you a square inside corner to clamp up, when you put it to the front stile.  Looks like a mitered joint from the outside, but all the "miter" is on one stile; no need for a spline, as the ledge at back provides alignment.  You can cut dadoes across the side stiles to support the shelves, on the inside face, to provide support, and make locating them simpler when assembling. Cut matching dadoes at the same time in the center backboard.

   To ease assembly, it is helpful to make a "cupboard square" from a piece of 3/8-1/2" thick wood, with a cutout at exactly 135*, to fit over the outside of the stiles to check that the angle is correct when clamping up.  Also, a set of  a dozen or so clamp blocks, about 6" l x 2" th x 1 3/4" w, with an offset an inch from one end to hook over the edge of the side stile, and a  45* notch on the opposite face near the other end, to catch the end of a barclamp so it is parallel to the face of the front stile.  With these you can adjust clamp pressure so it is right in line with the joint, pulling it up tight and square. 

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

          

        

    

1. 
   user-165082 | Jul 25, 2006 09:26pm | #7

   Hi ray,

   I was talking about the back of the corner cupboard. I'll be useing a 22,5 degree bevel is there another way to go about this if so can you help. I'm just a beginer. thanks

    

   Steve

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 26, 2006 12:56am | #8

   chief,

   I don't think it's worhtwhile to miter and spline the back of a corner cabinet.  The traditional construction is to bob off the very back corner of the shelves.  This accomplishes two things: it will keep the cupboard from rocking in the corner, if the house (or the cabinet) is less than square, and it presents the very back of the cupboard as parallel to the front, which looks more pleasing to most folks. The size of the flat back can vary from a minimum of perhaps 3", to 6-8" (enough to stand a small plate against) on a larger piece.

   To the backs of these bobbed off shelves, you would nail a center backboard whose edges are bevelled at 45*, so they come flush with the angled sides of the shelves.  As I mentioned in my previous post, the back board can be dadoed, 1/4" deep or so, to accept the edges of the shelves.  The rest of the backing can be relatively thin, 3/8- 1/2 " thick for solid wood, or as thin as 1/4" if plywood.  It is usually nailed on, coming flush with the rabbetted edge of the side stiles, and passing over the edge of and coming flush with the face of the center backboard.  No mitering or splining required for strength, and it looks nice and clean from the inside.  For a hanging cupboard, if hanging from the backboards, you can use screws instead of nails, if you are concerned about the backing pulling off under the weight of the cabinet.

   If you want the shelves to come to a point in back, it is easier, and plenty strong, to cut one side of your backing flush with the points of the shelves, then lap the other side over the first, and trim flush. 

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   user-165082 | Jul 26, 2006 03:16am | #9

   I am not sure I understand the bobbed back with 45* and the side pieces with 45* as well.  Can you explain in simpler terms?

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 26, 2006 06:36am | #10

   Steve ,

                  I think what Ray is suggesting to you is to clip the back corner off about 6" or so in each direction . Then either the cabinet sides or the screw rails get 45 ° cut into the corner post  or corner wall . If your shelves will be adjustable then use the corner post for the rear position support .

                   Here is a picture of the clamp blocks I use for 22 1/2 ° angled corner clamp ups .

                           dusty

    

2. 
   joinerswork | Jul 26, 2006 03:37pm | #11

   chief,

   If you think of each shelf as a  right triangle, with its hypotenuse as the front of the shelf, cut off the right angled point, parallel to the hypotenuse. That's the bobbed back. It makes a 135* angle with each of the right-angled legs.  A back board nailed to this will need both its edges bevelled back at 45* to come flush with the sides of the shelf (the two right angled legs of the triangle).  Back boards nailed to the right angled sides, will likewise need a 45* angle bevel on the edge that laps onto the center backboard, to come flush with its (rear) face.  

   Hope this clarifies things.  Too bad I don't know how draw on this infernal machine.

   Regards,

   Ray

    

3. 
   oldusty | Jul 26, 2006 05:06pm | #12

   Hi Ray ,

                    This is a tough thing to explain with words , you've done the best you can at it . There was a similar post a week or so ago and someone sent in a photo of a box like this in progress .

                             dusty