Could anyone give me some quick pointers on replacing a splined cane chair seat.Here are the questions I need answers to:
1.Do you use glue, or do the splines hold in the cane?
2. Do you need to stretch it somehow, or does driving in the splines provide the tension?
3.What is the best sequence, opposite sides first, or work your way around?
THanks for any help.
Hans
Replies
Hi Hans ,
Yes , you use glue, then the spline on top . The cane needs to soak in water before you put it in the groove, the cane will swell up a bit when it absorbs the water. When the cane dries it will shrink and get tighter. I always start at the front so I can make sure it is lined up and not crooked. Then the back and then side to side , just like putting screen in a screen groove. You can use some soft wood wedges without any sharp edges to work the cane into the groove without pounding on it , as you run the risk of breaking some strands by forcing too hard . Almost every article I have read says soak the cane for 20 minutes to 2 hours , I soak it 6-8 hours and in 30 years have never had any failures , so whatever works for you.Get the cane seated in the groove , then trim just below the outside edge with a sharp utility knife , this way the cut strands will not show around the edge of the spline. After dry fitting the spline , lay the glue in on the sides and the whole groove so good contact will be made with the spline . The hardest part can be removing the old ,with out causing any damage . Many so called experts say hyde glue is better than say Titebond , but only because it comes out easier for the next time. I am more interested in keeping it in than taking it out. As with all things there are usually many ways of doing the same thing this is just one way, but it works .
good luck dusty
good kuck
Thanks ,Dusty!
What a complete answer. THe chair in question is one of a set of four press back oak chairs I bought about 25 years ago. I have the groves all cleaned out and am thinking about ordering the spline and woven cane material from Rockler. Any thoughts?Hans
Hans,
Your very welcome. One important consideration is the exact cane and spline size to be ordered . Since thie chair is one of a set , matching the size becomes important. The most common size is what is called 1/2" open mesh . One way to test is to take a standard size pencil and see if it fits just right in one of the holes the cane pattern forms, or match the old cane to a size chart that may be printed in the catalog you order from , same is true with the spline . This match will ensure the chairs of looking similar if not the same when you are done
dusty
Good advice.I will do the pencil check. Thanks very much for taking the time to help.I hope I can return the favor.
Hans
Dusty did answer your questions very well. I am in the process of recaning 8 chair seats as we speak.
I picked up a very good book at the Campbell folk school called "he Canner's Handbook" $18.75 The book has many types of caning, but great pictures also. Their E-mail is http://www.larkbooks.com, mabe Barnes and Noble might have it. As far as supplies go I bought mine from "Van Dykes's Restorers 1-800=558-1234, or http://www.vandykes.com. Ibought cane, and grove cleaners after breaking one of my good chisels. As you have discovered the original cane is glued in, I dripped water into the grove and it came out ok. I wish I had bought the book before I started. I also agree to soak the seat for hours, but not the splines.
Have fun, Rex
Hey Rex ,
Hello there , you are correct by not soaking the spline with one exception , when re-caning any furniture with rounded corners especially a very tight radius , soaking the spline for a short period of time will allow you to curve and shape it to fit the groove .Sometimes one long length of spline can be used say for a chair back or what have you . After the spline has taken the shape you want let it dry out a bit before gluing it in the groove . Some pieces of spline can become very brittle thus the reason for soaking . dusty
Thanks for your help. I am all set now.
Hans
Hans
I have never caned a chair but I have rushed a few. There is a company in California that specializes in these products and are very reasonable. I have called and got some help from the guys in the back shop. They have a nice catalog that has been very helpful. I don't recall their name but have it at work, if you would like it let me know.
Gods Peace
les
Hans:This is not my favorite job in the shop,but I have done it many times.
I soak both the cane and the spline. I use Le Pages glue in the bottle. I put glue in the bottom of the groove only.I trim the edges of the cane slightly below the top of the spline after every thing has dried out. A 3/8" sharp chisel works for me on the final trimming.
I have built a few cane bottom chairs using holes in the seat and single strands of cane. I have never had to recane one of these.
I have read the other posts, and I think that they have given you good advice.People do things in different ways.Whatever works for you is best.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Thanks, Pat. I am still amazed at the internet and chat rooms like this. I have gone from total ignorance to all the info I need in 48 hours without spending any money or having to travel anywheree.
Hans
Pat:
I have another question regarding your technique. I understand that you put glue in the bottom of the groove. What is the sequence on the trimming and splining? Do you drive the splines all the way in on the glued cane and then trim the extra off, or do you add the spline after you have glued and trimmed the cane?
Thanks again for your help.
Hans
I put the glue in the bottom of the groove. It holds the cane and the bottom of the spline.
The soaked cane is verv flexible and goes down easily.The spline will have tapered sides and a slight round on the top.
You can make a narrow punch from hardwood to start the cane in the groove.I trim the ends of the cane to the low edge of the spline after the glue has dried and all seat shrinkage has taken place
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