Replies

1. 
   Tao | Apr 20, 2005 07:11pm | #1

   A couple of questions:

   Is wood actually splintering off, or is the finish coming off in slivers?

   Is this on a mullion between windows, or an a sash bar or muntin that actually holds the glass? I ask that because of the size difference.

   Splintery wood can be glued down with liquid hide glue then wiped down with a wet rag to take any excess glue off the surface, and the repair will take a lot of stains OK.

   If it's the clear finish that is failing, it has to come off. Shellac will come off with denatured alcohol or an ATM (acetone, toluene, methanol) stripper, as will lacquer on small jobs.

   If that doesn't answer your question I think we need more info.  Always test before committing.

   Michael R

   "You have to look for possibilities where there are none" Krenov

1. 
   jmo2 | Apr 20, 2005 07:51pm | #2

   Hi Michael--

   Thanks for your response.  I do think it's the wood but it isn't deep.  And it's only in a small area.  I took some photos of the project (and don't worry, we tested for lead paint before we started and the results came back negative.)

   The first photo is of taking the last traces of shellac and paint off with denatured alcohol to reveal the stain.

   The second is of the pattern of the mullions for a "healthy" window.

   The third is the area I'm concerned about.  The wood is very dark grey in this spot and brittle on the surface (as you can see from the area where I tested it and broke off a sliver.)  I'd also like remove the handles, fill in the holes where the screws were, and replace them  (the current holes have become loose over the last 90 years.)

   I'm on a break and typing quickly.  Sorry about any spelling mistakes.  Thanks much!

   jmo

    

   
1. 
   Tao | Apr 20, 2005 08:11pm | #3

   Pictures sure help.

   The wood is weathered, probably from a combination of UV light and condensation.

   If it were mine, I'd just sand it smooth and get on with it.

   You could fill the splintered out areas with wood epoxy or wood filler, but unless you are very good at touchup, it will look worse than just smoothing it down.

   There are more drastic approaches such as replacing the parts or inlaying wood to replace the old, but you need equipment and experience to do those well.

   HTH

    Michael R

   "You have to look for possibilities where there are none" Krenov

1. 
   jmo2 | Apr 20, 2005 08:30pm | #4

   Thanks!  The pattern of the damage definitely indicates that condensation could be the culprit. 

   I'm going to use the mouse then, and sand it down carefully.  Any suggestions for filling those holes from the window handles?  Since the handles will be going back on, how it looks under stain wouldn't be as important.

   I feel more confident tackling this now.  What a help!

1. 
   Tao | Apr 20, 2005 08:38pm | #5

   I'd hand sand, myself.  You can use the edge of an old deck of cards to improvise a contour sanding block.

   Two common ways of filling screw holes are to whittle a plug and glue it in, or to fill with wood epoxy.  The epoxy comes in rolls where you cut of a slice, knead it thoroughly to mixk and stuff it in the hole. Regular wood filler works, but not as well as the first two.Michael R

   "You have to look for possibilities where there are none" Krenov

2. 
   jmo2 | Apr 20, 2005 08:50pm | #6

   Deck of cards, brilliant!  Thanks!

   Any specific brand on that epoxy by the roll...I don't think I've ever seen that.

3. 
   Tao | Apr 20, 2005 09:16pm | #7

   Any specific brand on that epoxy by the roll...I don't think I've ever seen that.

   No. they are all pretty good.  Most hardware stores carry it either in their adhesive or paint departments, adn I think you'll find it in paint stores.

   Ask for "Tootsie Roll" epoxy.Michael R

   "You have to look for possibilities where there are none" Krenov

4. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 22, 2005 02:09pm | #9

   old deck of cards to improvise a contour sanding block..

   DANG! Why did I never think of that? AND I thought I was sort of smart..

   So simple it hurt....

2. 
   BryanSayer | Apr 21, 2005 08:18pm | #8

   I certainly applaud your effort in maintaining the original look of your windows (they're really nice windows by the way), but I do suggest you take a look at a more durable finish than shellac. It doesn't stand up that well on windows, as the water condensation and large temperature changes are problems.

   Sherwin-Williams makes some high UV resistant finishes that we have been using. You can tint them with TransTint to alter the color if need be. They are a vinyl sealer and an acrylic top coat.

   Abatron epoxies cure a bit harder than the tootsie roll ones, but you will have to use a bit of paint (burnt umber is a good starting point) to camouflage them if the are exposed.