Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Dec 30, 2021 01:27pm | #1

   Skip the bolts, and drawbore the joints. Bolted joints end up, eventually, wobbly. If you ever need to move it, hire a mover if you need to.

   I dislike the split top designs, though many love them.

2. 
   _mj_ | Dec 30, 2021 01:50pm | #2

   For me it's a solid top. I lose enough crap off the sides and back to know I'd be searching the floor many times every day.

   I went with drawbored trestle ends with brass rod and bolted the stretchers...but they are also M&T'd into the trestles with the bolts running through the ends to large barrel nuts drilled into the stretchers from below.

   It'll break down but I'll still need a moving crew for the top.

3. 
   esch5995 | Dec 30, 2021 03:18pm | #3

   After buying the Benchcrafted hardware kit which included the plans for the split top bench I chose to build the bench pretty much as they had it designed and abandoned a bench of my own design and have no regrets it is by far the best bench I have ever owned or worked on. As far as the split top goes, their design can function as a split top or a solid top. Most of the time that is how my bench is configured but I have on several occasions been thankful for the ability to removed the center tool holder and take advantage of using the split top design.

4. 
   thebardowl | Dec 30, 2021 04:02pm | #4

   I built a slight variation of Schwarz's Anarchist Workbench, and am very pleased with it. I, too, eschew the notion of a split top; any benefits are far outnumbered by (more frequently encountered) negatives, I believe.

   My bench follows the basic construction Schwarz describes, and it turned out to be a beast. I placed both a Benchcrafted criss-cross leg vise and their wagon-vise-style tail vise. My variations from plan were minor. (I added a sliding deadman--that's the biggest thing. Easily done.)
   I'm not sure what the bench weighs, but I'd guess well north of 300 lb; moving it will never be an enjoyable endeavor. (My honest guess of something more specific would be about 375 lb, but who knows?)

   What I love most about it is that it is as solid as a bench can be. It feels (and sounds) like it's a giant tree stump growing up out of the floor of the shop, with nary a tremor, shake, shimmy, or unwanted vibration. Compared to the long-ago days of working on a B&D Workmate, or my previous (much too light and not big enough) bench, this one's a dream--and relatively easy to build, too. (Except for the fact that as assembly grows, there's lots of mass to be moved about. BTW, the Benchcrafted tail vise is an easy add-on, and it functions very well for me.)

   In some ways, it's more bench than I absolutely need, but it's much better to have a bit more bench than strictly necessary than one that's too often not quite enough.

5. 
   rob_ss | Dec 30, 2021 05:33pm | #5

   Moving is not a problem unless your bench is going to be too wide to fit through a doorway. Weight is not an issue and can (almost) always be overcome.
   As long as your bench will go where it is intended then build it any way you like.
   If it does not work out, then doubtless you will have no trouble selling it.

6. 
   EdWeber | Dec 30, 2021 08:59pm | #6

   I prefer a bench where the legs are not integrated into the top, like this one as an example.
   https://www.finewoodworking.com/videoworkshop/2012/08/build-a-monster-workbench
   whatever works for you

7. 
   jamenard | Dec 30, 2021 09:59pm | #7

   As you mentioned, Schwarz's design and the Benchcrafted design are really not that dissimilar. Another difference you don't mention is that Schwarz's design is built around 2x12's from the home center. You could build it from non-dimensioned lumber, but the techniques Schwarz discusses in the book leverage the dimensioned lumber.

   I'm a little over halfway done with my Benchcrafted STR build. A few thoughts -- 1. You can certainly build the top without the gap. 2. The bench builder kit comes with the barrel nuts, but you can forego them extend the rail tenons and drawbore them. 3. The top is attached to the legs via mortise and stub tenons, then secured via 1/2" spax lag screws. If you felt that isn't immobile enough, I suppose you could extend the tenons and drawbore them.

   At the end of the day, both benches share the same DNA, and excel in all the ways they need to; they have mass and can secure a board, allowing you to work its face, edge, and end.

1. 
   tim_stockton | Dec 30, 2021 10:41pm | #8

   You must be reading my mind. The things you have mentioned are exactly what I have been thinking about. I’m considering using tenons with draw bores for the joints but keeping in the split top, at least for now. As you said, it can always be closed up. To help with my thoughts, I’m drawing it up in Sketchup. Additionally, I’m considering using Jim Tolpins input for sizing the bench to my body size.

8. 
   tbonetim | Dec 31, 2021 02:46am | #9

   I built the split top Roubo with Benchcrafted's benchmaker's package and followed their plans right down the middle, customizing only with sipo as an accent wood (chop, sliding deadman, condor-tail end block), and by carving the build year and my initials on the end rails.

   I get joy out of the beauty of the bench, but mostly it is the superb functionality that I still marvel at after 2 years of daily use. What I like most:

   -as others have said, it is massive and rock solid, and this makes planing, chopping, sawing, shaping, etc, etc, a real joy. The stub tenons and large spax screws are more than adequate to prevent any movement between the top and base.
   -Benchcrafted's "effortless workholding" slogan and their smooth promotional videos are not hyperbole. It is truly that quick and easy to secure your workpiece. The face and wagon vice function benefit greatly from the mass and quality of the Benchcrafted hardware. I do find that a couple of quality holdfasts come in handy.

   While I disagree that the barrel bolts will loosen over time, I do think going with all drawbored tenons would work equally well. This beast is somewhere around 400 lbs and designed to stay put, but hiring a mover is no big deal, so having the ability to break it down is not critical.

   I find that the split top/gap stop and the sliding deadman add significant functionality but it would still be a great bench without them.

   I have no association with Benchcrafted other than the exchange of my money for their stuff.

9. 
   user-1118538293 | Dec 31, 2021 01:54pm | #10

   These discussions are always amusing for me because for some reason whenever I see “anarchist” it scans as “antichrist”.
   I wonder what features that bench would have?

10. 
    _mj_ | Dec 31, 2021 02:25pm | #11

    Definitely a deadman.

1. 
   rob_ss | Jan 02, 2022 03:03am | #13

   An an inscription of the paternoster backwards, just to ensure correct verbage...

11. 
    curmudgeon | Jan 01, 2022 07:34pm | #12

    I pondered the same question a three years ago. Ended up building the anarchist from Swartz… pretty much right in line with the book, a hair shorter. I decided to not go split top for several reasons although a split top with a removable filler had some appeal.

    The Swartz bench is a beast as mentioned above. I used big box SYP which was a bit if a chore. I’m not as young as I thought I was. Big sticks of lumber are heavy. Also. I did have a difficult time finding nice clean SYP. And the moisture dry out took a good bit longer than I thought. Maybe two months here in the humid Midwest. The build was a great learning experience for me.

    Some other thoughts/considerations:

    1. I looked at Benchcrafted hardware (and others,) and just couldn’t bring myself to part with the money. For the leg vise I ended up using a St. George’s Cross solution from Hovarter Vise in Michigan and a Yost vise screw I got online. Very happy with it. Hovarter calls his cross an “X-Link.” I couldn’t justify the need for speed against the Benchcrafted solution or Hovarter’s face vise solution. I made my chop from hard maple.

    2. After a lot of reading, etc. on tail vices, etc., I decided I wanted a wagon vise. Looking for a wagon vise lead me to Hovarter in the first place. I liked his solution, especially the equivalent of a “quick release” solution. This vise is efficient for my uses. I’d go that route again.

    3. As MJ mentioned above, a deadman is a must in my book. I scored a nice Stanley 208 deadman clamp/vise on fleabay. I recommend if you can find one. (note that clamp requires a 1” hole. Plan accordingly.

    4. Get your hardware before you start your build.

    5. IMO some of the work for either approach will require a second strong back.

    6. I incorporated a planing stop on the off end of the bench by bedding a t track on the end face. Waste of time and effort IMO. For my needs, I wouldn’t do that in hindsight.

    Last, enjoy the build. Either solution takes some time.

    Best wishes, we’d love to see pics of your finished bench!