I am a woodworker in Northern California who makes anything from smaller projects to furniture to cabinetry. I have used a variety of finishes including shellac, oil and water based varnishes (often General Finishes), Arm-R-Seal, and Waterlox all wiped or brushed on. With cabinetry I have a professional finisher apply conversion varnish which has proved very durable for projects for both clients and family. I have built with many woods but most commonly use cherry or maple, less often walnut, alder, or sapele, mostly with clear finishes.
In the last year we have had the fortune of moving into a new home with a dedicated shop with a one car garage that I can set up as a “spray booth” of sorts. I have a Fuji HVLP and in the distant past sprayed some General Finishes Poly or Endurovar with adequate results – likely my poor technique not the product.
Considering trying Target Coatings but not sure which – they have water based lacquers, varnishes, and urethanes. Any suggestions/comments about their products or other brands including General Finishes? Ease of use for a spray novice?
Replies
I use Target. The basic em2000 is my goto. Has a bit of the traditional golden colour of varnish added. I get best results by adding their retarder. Lets the finish flow out more easily, hiding my crappy gun technique. Because I am finishing parts on the flat and not a whole piece of assembled furniture flow is my friend.
I use em 6000 when i'm going to sand and polish. It "burns in" and doesn't leave witness lines between the layers. I use em7000 high build when i am finishing the edges on prefinishe baltic birch drawer boxes with a foam brush. I would not spray with it....way to thick and hard to mange.
Thanks for that information - will give it a try!
Few followup questions - how much do they raise the grain? Lots of sanding after first coat? how many coats do you typically apply?
I lay down 2 coats,leave overnight, sand the next day with 400 and put on a final coat.
That doesn't sound too onerous!
Thanks!
It's not something I use often any longer, but for a while, I sprayed only EM6000 and if the finish needed to be hard, a crosslinker - I think it was CL100 or something of theirs.
it works well. Well enough I never looked further, and spraying finish inside where I live wasn't going to happen unless divorce occured before spraying.
the EM6000 is kind of flexible by itself, but mostly clear, and with the crosslinker, it's much harder and more kitchen cabinet suitable - much more abrasion resistant, too.
If it needs to be toned, I've done so just by sealing with (dewaxed amber) shellac first and then applying the WB finish over. Have done kid and wife's desk with it, too - but twist is they wanted "milk paint but durable" or chalk paint or some other nonsense. I chalk painted the desks, let them dry for a couple of days and then sprayed WB finish over them and the durability has been excellent with better color courtesy of the clear on top - it just doesn't look like chalk paint (a plus in my book).